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90280JC General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for 90280JC

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WR2X4901
$33.78
In Stock
Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X4901
This refrigerator door hinge cam riser is designed to ensure smooth and consistent door movement. Installed directly on the door, it helps the appliance open and close properly by guiding the door to rise and fall gently, which also supports a secure seal. Made from durable plastic, this part is ideal for resolving issues such as doors that stick, fail to seal correctly, or make unusual noises during operation.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$15.00
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X207
$55.29
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WR72X207
This drawer track supports the left hand side of the sliding drawer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X206
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WR72X206
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X209
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR72X209
The drawer slide rail in your refrigerator allows the door bin to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing it will need to be replaced. This slide rail is sold individually, and is for the left side of your refrigerator drawer bin. Be sure to order the correct replacement rail for your drawer. The rail is approximately 15 inches wide and is made of white plastic.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X208
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR72X208
This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not be able to slide into position. This slide rail is for the right side of the refrigerator and is sold individually, so be sure to order the slide rail for the correct side. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 15 inches in length. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Package of 12 Screws – Part Number: WZ4X244D
No Longer Available
Package of 12 Screws
Part #WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these screws. The screws are approximately ¾ of an inch in length.
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
$23.16
In Stock
Light Socket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty socket. It is important to determine if the light bulb is simply burned out, or if the socket is causing the issue. Be sure to disconnect your refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. This socket is black in color and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Door Hinge Shim – Part Number: WR2X7491
No Longer Available
Door Hinge Shim
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR2X7491
This is the replacement door hinge shim, or riser cam shim for your refrigerator. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches in length, and 1 inch in width. Your refrigerator will have a door hinge shim on each door, and each shim is sold individually. The door hinge shim will have three holes in it; one larger hole, and two smaller ones. The door hinge shim is found on the bottom of your refrigerator door, and the main reason for replacing it is if it is torn or damaged. When you are completing this repair, the door will be briefly unsupported. As a result, it is recommended to remove everything from the door to make it as light as possible, and to ensure that the items in the door don’t fall out. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.

Common Symptoms of the 90280JC

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Door would not automatically close.
180 of 194 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from North eastham, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.

One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.

Purchased part 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.

Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.

1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.

2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.

3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.

4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.

5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover

6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.
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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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