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868 - Overview

Models starting with 868

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Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch – Part Number: WPW10196405
$10.95
In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(50)
Part #WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookware on the burner. The diameter of the drip bowl is approximately 10 inches. This replacement might appear slightly different, but it will fit your appliance. You will need no tools to complete this repair. Simply remove the burner element, remove the old bowl, line up the hole on the new bowl with the terminal block and drop it into place. Make sure the bowl is flat before reinstalling the element. While you have the element out you should inspect the terminals for corrosion, damage, or discolouration. If you notice any of those things you should also replace the element and terminal block. You will need to replace your drip bowl if it is lost, damaged, or can no longer be cleaned. This replacement part is sold individually. To extend the life of your new drip bowl we recommend you clean it regularly with soap and water. We recommend only using the recommended drip bowl for your appliance; generic versions will not fit properly which could affect the performance of your elements and cause long-term damage.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: W10196406RW
$15.00
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(40)
Part #W10196406RW
If your element will not heat, there could be an issue with your drip bowl. This chrome drip bowl is 8 inches in diameter, and fits most electric ranges. Before you replace the drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. Installation is easy, just remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and replace the element. Make sure the small hole on the bowl lines up with the element socket. The manufacturer has substituted this part, it now has a hole in the center, and no longer has a solid bottom. For a step by step guide, click the video below.
Surface Burner Receptacle Kit – Part Number: 12001676
$19.30
In Stock
Surface Burner Receptacle Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(21)
Part #12001676
The tools you will need to replace the surface burner receptacle kit on your range include a Phillips screw driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Before doing this repair, make sure to disconnect your appliance from the power supply and wear work gloves to protect your hands. The surface burner receptacle kit comes with a plastic block, high temperature wire nuts, a metal bracket, and wires. This part functions as the connection between the wire harness and the surface element in your range.
Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2600W – Part Number: WP660533
$33.69
In Stock
Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2600W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(21)
Part #WP660533
The surface burner or element on your range provides the heat that you cook with. If your element will not heat, you may need to replace the surface burner. This surface burner is 8 inches in diameter and 2600 watts. The burner element is made of metal and has two prongs that connect it to the range. The manufacturer recommends you replace the burner receptacle at the same time that you replace the surface burner. Many of our customers have rated this repair as very easy. To complete the repair simply lift the old burner up and out, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect power to the range before beginning this repair.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
$45.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(44)
Part #WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Standard Y-Frame Range Surface Burner – Part Number: WP660532
$28.42
In Stock
Standard Y-Frame Range Surface Burner
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WP660532
The standard y-frame surface burner provides heat to your range. If you notice that your element will not heat, you may need to replace your surface burner. This product is 6 inches in diameter, and 1500W. The manufacturer suggests replacing the receptacle at the same time that you replace the surface burner. Many of our customers have rated this repair as very easy, and you will not need any tools. To complete the repair, simply lift out the old burner and replace it with the new one. Check that the burners are turned off before you begin this repair.
Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 833697
$65.73
In Stock
Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(51)
Part #833697
This condenser fan motor kit is designed for use with refrigerators. This fan draws air through the condenser coils and over the compressor. It does this with the goal of cooling the warm refrigerant before it enters the evaporator. When your fan or fan motor is not working your refrigerator will not cool properly. This is a 2-Watt, 115 Volt motor that rotates the fan in a counter clockwise direction. This kit includes the hardware needed for installation, and a set of instructions. Before you begin any repair work make sure to unplug your appliance.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: 5304464438
$56.05
In Stock
Run Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #5304464438
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. Replacing the run capacitor is a relatively easy project. For this repair you will only need a 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply line to the unit before you begin this repair. For full step by step instructions, simply click on the video below.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
439 of 554 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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