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82H - Overview

Models starting with 82H

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Range Frame Screw – Part Number: WP7101P126-60
$7.47
Special Order
Range Frame Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP7101P126-60
Sold Individually.
Gas Range Knobs - Kit of 4 – Part Number: 12500061
No Longer Available
Gas Range Knobs - Kit of 4
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #12500061
These black knobs will accept a D-shaped shaft.
GRATE BURNER – Part Number: W11400301
No Longer Available
GRATE BURNER
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #W11400301
This square burner grate has sides measuring approximately nine inches. It is all black in color.
Range Screw 632 X 5/16 – Part Number: WP74004005
$7.47
In Stock
Range Screw 632 X 5/16
Part #WP74004005
This screw is well under an inch long, and is made of metal.
Burner Spark Ignition Switch – Part Number: WP7403P190-60
$65.73
In Stock
Burner Spark Ignition Switch
Part #WP7403P190-60
Sold individually.
Pressure Regulator – Part Number: WP7510P083-60
No Longer Available
Pressure Regulator
Part #WP7510P083-60
This valve automatically cuts off the flow of gas at a certain pressure.
SCREW – Part Number: 74009538
$23.60
Special Order
SCREW
Part #74009538
SCREW – Part Number: 7101P256-60
No Longer Available
SCREW
Part #7101P256-60
Burner Gasket – Part Number: 7201P037-60
No Longer Available
Burner Gasket
Part #7201P037-60
This gasket goes under the burner to help protect the glass from high heat.
COVER- BUR – Part Number: 7724P004-60
No Longer Available
COVER- BUR
Part #7724P004-60
Power Cord – Part Number: 12400044
No Longer Available
Power Cord
Part #12400044
BURNER, TOP LEFT – Part Number: 7505P160-60
No Longer Available
BURNER, TOP LEFT
Part #7505P160-60
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Igniter Switch on the burner was constantly on
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roman from West Caldwell, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
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Old range knobs were broken.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anna from New York, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Old range knobs were broken. I just pulled them off and pushed on the new knobs.
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Continuous sparking on all burners due to broken ignition switch
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hannah from AMHERST, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).

2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.

After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.

Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.

3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.

While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.

4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
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