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79573963300 Kenmore Freezer - Overview

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Compressor Start Relay – Part Number: 6749C-0014E
$45.29
In Stock
Light Bulb – Part Number: 6912JB2004M
No Longer Available
Ice Maker Assembly – Part Number: 5989JA0002N
No Longer Available
Ice Maker Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #5989JA0002N
This ice maker assembly is a genuine OEM replacement unit for LG refrigerators. It is responsible for producing and dispensing ice cubes. You can find the ice maker assembly inside the freezer compartment of your fridge. The assembly consists of several parts, including a water inlet valve, ice mold, thermostat, and motorized assembly for dispensing ice. If any of these components fail, your ice maker will be unable to produce any ice or may only release small amounts of ice. This complete assembly contains all the parts you need to replace your faulty unit and restore your refrigerator.
Refrigerator Slide Rail – Part Number: 5218JJ3001A
$15.00
In Stock
Refrigerator Slide Rail
Part #5218JJ3001A
Refrigerator Inlet Tube – Part Number: 5040JA2015A
$34.74
In Stock
Guide Rail Assembly - Right Side – Part Number: 4975JJ2002A
$45.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Plastic Tube – Part Number: 5210JA3005A
$23.60
In Stock
Refrigerator Plastic Tube
Part #5210JA3005A
Ice Maker Ice Maker Assembly – Part Number: 5989JA0002Y
$278.83
In Stock
Ice Maker Ice Maker Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #5989JA0002Y
This ice maker assembly is designed for select LG refrigerators and includes both the ice mold and control device to ensure consistent and efficient ice production. If your refrigerator is no longer producing ice, this complete unit may be the solution. Before beginning installation, disconnect the appliance from all utilities and follow safety precautions. Please verify compatibility with your model, as part dimensions may vary slightly.
Water Valve – Part Number: 5220JB2010T
$164.47
In Stock
Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #5220JB2010T
This water inlet valve is a genuine replacement part that controls the flow of water to your refrigerator’s ice maker and dispenser, helping ensure steady ice production and proper dispensing. It features a single-valve design with an attached wire harness and is used to replace a valve that may be leaking, failing to supply water, or causing slow ice and water output. Installing a new valve helps restore smooth, reliable operation. Be sure to disconnect power and the water line before replacing the part, and check your refrigerator’s model number to confirm the correct fit.
Drain Tube Assembly – Part Number: 5251JA3003D
$23.60
In Stock
Screw,Customized – Part Number: 4J00415D
$15.00
Special Order
Screw,Customized
Part #4J00415D

Manuals & Care Guides for 79573963300

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Common Symptoms of the 79573963300

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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icemaker stopped working
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norris from Telford, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
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The ice maker in freezer P/NO 5988JA0002Y would leak water and make giant ice block
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from SURPRISE, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I ordered and replaced the ice maker. To replace:

1. Go behind refrigerator and unplug electrical cord and turn off water supply.

2. In freezer locate electrical plug for ice maker. It has two tabs on the left and right side of it. Lift the tabs and pull the plug to disconnect it.

3. Remove the three screw s, 2 on top and 1 on bottom of ice maker You can actually leave the screws in place if you loosen them sufficiently and lift the ice maker off of the screws and washers.

4. Install the new ice maker using the screws and plastic washers to secure it.

5. Plug the electrical connector for ice maker into the receptacle. Note: The plug only goes one way and is keyed with different shaped plugs and holes. The wires on my plug naturally fell upside down so I had to turn the plug 180 degrees to make it fit in the slot.

6. Turn on water and check for leaks.

7. Plug back in refrigerator and you should have ice in less than 12 hours.
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The ice maker fill valve died.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from NEWPORT NEWS, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was l arger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"
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