This water tube, or plastic tube, is used in refrigerators and freezers. The tube ensures water is directed to parts of the refrigerator that need it, such as the water dispenser and ice maker. If you find that your current one is leaking or broken in any way, replacing the tube can fix this problem. Make sure to unplug the appliance from...Read more the power source before you start this installation project. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instruction and accurate guidance.
This handle screw, also known as a mounting bolt, is a mounting screw to help secure the door handle to your refrigerator door. If your handle is loose, you may just need to tighten the screw. If your screw is missing or broken, it may need to be replaced. There are multiple handle screws on your fridge, please consider ordering extra as ...Read morethey commonly wear at the same rate. This is about 1 inch long and metallic in color.
This is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The crisper slide rail for your refrigerator allows the crisper drawer to slide in and out, and supports the drawer as it does so. This part is for the right side of your crisper drawer. Please note that the roller for this guide rail is a separate part under part number PS11759956.
This is a genuine replacement switch. It is a push button style switch that is designed for use in your refrigerator. When the door of your appliance is opened the switch is released, and the light comes on. When you close the door the switch is pressed in, and the light turns off. You may need a putty knife to remove your old switch.
This genuine OEM lever spring exerts tension between the ice maker door plunger and the ice maker itself on your refrigerator. If there is little to no tension holding your ice door seal in place, the spring may be faulty. This spring is approximately 1-inch long. Remember to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before beginning this repair.
Filters water without removing minerals that are of value to your health, such as fluoride. Lessens the presence of iron, dirt, and rust, among other impurities. This filter needs to be replaced every six months or 500 gallons. It measures 5.6 inches high and 3.3 inches in diameter. To replace, first remove the old filter, which can be ac...Read morecessed by removing the top shelf. Pull it down and turn counter-clockwise to remove. Take your new filter and check to make sure the tabs are in the horizontal position. Now push it into the compartment and rotate it until it is secure. To remove trapped air, run 2.5 gallons of water through the system in cycles of 30 seconds on and 60 second off. If your model has an indicator on the display, push and hold the Filter or Reset button for about 5 seconds to reset.
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Evaporator Fan Squeeking
17 of 21 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Kyle from WOODBURY, MN
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Detected noise as coming from top freezer department, and tips and part diagram clearly pointed to evaporator fan. You go in through the freezer (you have to empty top half of freezer); removing the side rails holding the ice bin, and then the 4 outer screws (only 2 each side - not the middle ones) holding the 'auger' that turns the bin
... Read more. From there it gets interesting in trying to disconnect the wires. You might consider taking some pictures of the connected wires - perhaps it doesn't matter, but several of them can be hooked up in reverse. After the ice marker is out, remove light and light cover, side rails/mounts that hold hold up ice maker. This leaves a large white cover that pops out (seam at bottom of it has two tabs that you can pop out) holding the fan; and then only a few more wires to disconnect to be able to get at the fan. Mine clearly had a wobble to it confirming the source of the squeak and need to replace. Install was just reverse -- a bit tricky to get some of the wires connected given the tight spaces. Overall, not difficult - but a lot of wires and screws to connect/disconnect. I didn't take any pictures as I disassembled, and found myself having to take some extra time to figure it out as I reassembled. In the end -- a silent and functioning refrigerator Good luck!
Water feed line running from water valve to filter housing was leaking
13 of 21 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Tom from EASTON, PA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter
... Read more housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!
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Fridge waterline for ice maker / door water
6 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Todd from MARS HILL, NC
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them. undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.
... Read morer />NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save! NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors. NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy. MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.
After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines