The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Befor...Read moree you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This genuine OEM oven probe is also known as an oven temperature sensor or range probe. This part is manufactured for a range, stove, or oven to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. The probe allows the oven to maintain the set temperature by sensing the temperature and sending the information to the ovens motherboard. You may n...Read moreeed to replace this part if oven is not heating or is heating unevenly. Be sure to disconnect power to oven before replacing, as it is an electrical part. Tools needed are 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This handle mounting screw works with your oven or range, and bolts the door handle to the door. It is approximately 2 inches in length and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. If your oven door will not close or your door handle is loose or disconnected, you may need to tighten or replace the handle mounting screw.
The Frigidaire light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven. No tools are necessary to replace this item. After unplugging the appliance, slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. Be sure to remove all broken glass, if applicable, before installing the new lens. It is recommended to check the state of...Read more the light bulb while the lens is off. This part is made of glass. The lens is a genuine Frigidaire part, sourced directly from the manufacturer, and is sold individually.
This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If your glide is damaged or missing, replacing it could solve any difficulty using the drawer. First, remove the storage drawer and locate the ...Read morerear glide on the side. Next, remove the glide by taking out the screws. Replace new glide by placing tabs into the cut-out. If you are replacing both rear drawer glides, then repeat the same on the other side. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and guidance.
This front drawer glide supports the bottom storage or broil drawer, allowing it to slide smoothly in and out of the range. Designed to reduce friction and keep the drawer properly aligned, it helps ensure easy and stable operation. Replacing a worn or damaged glide can fix issues such as sticking, tilting, or uneven movement, restoring normal drawer function.
This is a six-inch radiant element with limiter. It works in conjunction with your stove top range. The purpose of this part is to heat up the cooking area that is located on top of the range, also known as your stove top. If you suspect that your surface element is not properly heating then you may want to test the element for continuity...Read more. This model is sold individually and is 1200 watts. The tools you will need for this installation include a Phillips screwdriver and a 14-inch nut driver.
This dual radiant surface element is designed for electric ranges and cooktops, offering two heating zones—9 inches and 6 inches—to accommodate a variety of cookware sizes. It delivers consistent, even heat for efficient cooking and serves as a direct replacement for damaged or underperforming elements. Operating at 240 volts, the unit fe...Read moreatures a durable all-metal temperature control rod that enhances heat stability and longevity. Compatible with multiple models across several brands, this component is ideal for restoring optimal performance to your cooktop. Installation should be performed with the appliance disconnected from power and may require basic tools.
This broil element is a genuine replacement part designed for electric ranges and ovens. Located at the top of the oven cavity, it delivers high-intensity heat for broiling functions. Compatible with various models from Frigidaire, Kenmore, Electrolux, and other associated brands, this OEM component replaces several previous part numbers ...Read moreand ensures reliable performance. If your oven is not reaching broil temperatures, heating unevenly, or the element appears visibly damaged, replacing it can restore proper cooking function. Installation should be performed with the appliance unplugged or the circuit breaker turned off to ensure safety.
This is white touch up paint for refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, dryers, and freezers. It is used to cover, or touch up, nicks and scratches on the appliance from wear and tear. It is an 18ml bottle that contains paint and a small brush for easy application. It is a little over 2 inches tall. This is an OEM part that is sourced directl...Read morey from the genuine manufacturer, and is meant to be an exact match to the color of the appliance. If the appliance is not white, please see other colors such as almond or black.
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Back Burner didn't function
136 of 152 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
William from Burke, VA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
... Read more passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
76 of 101 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Richard from Centennial, CO
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m
... Read moreetal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
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burned out burner
70 of 99 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Lori from Winter Haven, FL
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the differ
... Read moreent sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!