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79091044403 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Infinite Burner Switch - Large Element – Part Number: 316436001
$51.29
In Stock
Infinite Burner Switch - Large Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(87)
Part #316436001
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
6" FM CHROME DRIP B – Part Number: L304430992
$20.63
In Stock
6" FM CHROME DRIP B
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #L304430992
This six-inch drip bowl or drip pan is found underneath the small surface element on your cooktop or range. A similar eight-inch drip bowl also exists, so be sure to check which size you need. The drip bowl is designed to catch any spills when cooking on your range. If your old drip bowl is stained or rusted, you may need to replace it. The drip bowl is easy to repair, it should simply fit into place.
Light Bulb – Part Number: 316538904
$27.45
On Order
Light Bulb
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
PROBE – Part Number: 316233903
$53.85
In Stock
PROBE
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★★★★★
(24)
Part #316233903
Note: Connector could be different than original. If so cut & splice wires together with porcelain wire nuts.
GLASS – Part Number: 5304506004
No Longer Available
GLASS
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #5304506004
This part is the replacement inner oven door glass for your oven. It is made of glass and is approximately 16 inches wide and 7 inches long. The oven door glass allows you to see inside the oven when the door is closed. The main reason to replace the inner oven door glass is if the old glass is cracked, broken, or missing. This part is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Leveling Leg Assembly – Part Number: 5304509869
$12.05
In Stock
Leveling Leg Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #5304509869
Sold Individually. These legs should be adjusted to make your appliance level on uneven flooring.
Steel Washer – Part Number: 316008401
$23.05
In Stock
Steel Washer
Part #316008401
This steel washer is also known as the range washer and is used on your oven door. The measurements for the steel washer are a three quarter inch outer diameter, and a one quarter inch inner diameter. This washer is an OEM part, made of steel, which is sourced directly from the manufacturer. This specific steel washer is used with your range, to secure the inner and outer door together and to secure the oven door handle back in place. Users have ranked this repair as a simple installation that should take you less than fifteen minutes to complete.
Oven Door Seal with Clips – Part Number: 316239700
$108.74
In Stock
Oven Door Seal with Clips
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #316239700
This oven door gasket is designed to form a secure seal around the perimeter of the oven door, helping to retain heat during cooking and improve energy efficiency. By preventing heat from escaping, it ensures consistent temperatures inside the oven for better cooking performance. The gasket is typically located along the inner edge of the oven door and can be replaced easily by removing the old seal and pressing the new one into place along the designated groove. Regular inspection is recommended, as a worn or damaged gasket can lead to uneven cooking and increased energy use.
Broiler Pan Grate Insert – Part Number: 5304494997
No Longer Available
Broiler Pan Grate Insert
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #5304494997
This OEM broiler pan and grate insert are cooking accessories used in your oven to broil food. The pan catches drippings and prevents them from falling into the appliance, while the grate insert ensures the food is cooked evenly. You can usually find them at the bottom of your appliance. If your broiler pan and grate insert are broken, your food may not cook evenly and the drippings may fall into your appliance. Additionally, it can be difficult to clean a damaged pan or grate. These authentic accessories come together when you purchase them, ensuring that you can enjoy evenly-cooked food without any mess.
Oven Light Socket – Part Number: 316116400
$63.59
In Stock
Oven Light Socket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #316116400
The oven light socket allows you to screw in a light bulb so that you can see the inside of your oven. The light socket is located in the back of your oven, so you will need to remove the back panel to access the socket for the repair. You will also need to remove the current light bulb and the light lens cover so that the old socket can be removed. As you will be working around electrical circuits for this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the oven before you begin work on the oven.
SCREW – Part Number: 316021109
$26.35
In Stock
SCREW
Part #316021109
Sold Individually.
Leveling Leg – Part Number: 316272900
$25.25
In Stock
Leveling Leg
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #316272900
This part is sold individually. The leveling leg is black in color and measures approximately 2 inches in length. It is made of plastic. The leveling leg is found underneath your range and may crack or wear down over time. This will need to be replaced if it has broken or gone missing. If you notice your oven is wobbling or uneven it may be due to the leveling leg needing to be replaced. This part can be adjusted to accommodate different heights due to uneven flooring. This is a genuine OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Manuals & Care Guides for 79091044403

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Back Burner didn't function
136 of 152 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Burke, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Range would not come on
107 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MaryLou from Monroe, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir es.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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