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79090010310 Kenmore Range - Overview

Diagrams for 79090010310

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Drip Bowl - 8" – Part Number: 316048413
$14.25
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(107)
Part #316048413
This chrome drip bowl is designed for use with electric cooktops and ranges. This drip bowl is sold individually. At the widest point this part has a diameter of approximately 10 inches. It sits beneath the surface burner element. It catches any drips or spills coming from the cookware on your burner. Because the cooktop is a high-traffic area of the kitchen, these bowls often get damaged, or get so dirty they can no longer be adequately cleaned. When replacing this part you need to remove the burner element. While you have it out we recommend inspecting the terminals and the element for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. Any of those things could be a sign of a bigger problem, and it indicates that the element and terminal block should be replaced.
Chrome Drip Bowl - 6" – Part Number: 316048414
$13.15
In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 6"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(111)
Part #316048414
The drip bowl catches grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. They are located under the heating elements. Drip bowls are often neglected and can become rusted and cracked. If your drip bowl is damaged, it could allow grease, food, or other spills to drip inside your range. This could become a fire hazard. This 6 inch chrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. To replace the drip bowl, remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. This part is sold individually.
Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: 5303935058
$15.20
In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(47)
Part #5303935058
This part connects the wire harness to the surface element and is used for ranges. The kit includes interchangeable mounting brackets, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing, and wires. If your range/oven is having symptoms such as burner not heating, heating elements not working, burning smell, or if the oven is making a buzzing noise then this could be the solution. The tools needed to replace the kit are wire strippers, a heat gun or hair dryer, and #1 square heard screw driver. Refer to the installation/instructional video for further guidance to accurately replace the element.
Infinite Burner Switch - Large Element – Part Number: 316436001
$51.29
In Stock
Infinite Burner Switch - Large Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(87)
Part #316436001
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2600W – Part Number: 316442301
$62.84
In Stock
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2600W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(27)
Part #316442301
The range surface element provides heat to the cooking surface on top of the range. The element has a universal plug, is 8 inches in diameter, spans 5 coils in width and reaches 2600 watts. Before you begin your repair, ensure that the elements are turned off and have had time to cool. Once you have removed the element this is a good time to ensure the terminal is in good condition (they can wear over time) which may need to be replaced as well. This quick repair requires no tools except gloves for safety, and a small amount of time.
6-Inch Coil Burner Element – Part Number: 318372211
$57.70
In Stock
6-Inch Coil Burner Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #318372211
This element is a genuine OEM replacement part, has looped terminal ends, comes with a black medallion center, and fits most electric ranges. All burners are made of a heating wire that produces heat from electricity. Remove the non-functional burner element from the terminal block (or receptacle). Use a multi-meter to check for continuity. Check the end of the terminals for corrosion or heat damage. If there is corrosion or heat damage, replace the whole terminal block or receptacle at the same time you replace the damaged coil. Before you start this repair, make sure that the element is turned off and cool to the touch.
Light Bulb – Part Number: 316538904
$27.45
On Order
Light Bulb
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
PROBE – Part Number: 316233903
$53.85
In Stock
PROBE
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(24)
Part #316233903
Note: Connector could be different than original. If so cut & splice wires together with porcelain wire nuts.
Infinite Burner Switch - Small Element - 240V – Part Number: 316436000
$63.75
In Stock
Infinite Burner Switch - Small Element - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #316436000
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
Oven Rack – Part Number: 316067902
$87.37
In Stock
Oven Rack
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #316067902
Oven racks can become rusted or damaged from constant use, and need to be properly maintained and cleaned to keep them working properly. If you notice that your oven rack has been damaged or rusted, the rack should be replaced. This oven rack has two anchor points on either side to keep it stable and secure within the oven. This ensures that your food stays in place when baking, and allows you to remove pots and pans without the threat of the entire rack falling out in the process. This metal oven rack measures 16 inches long x 23 inches wide, and is sold individually.
Broil Element – Part Number: 316203200
$128.94
In Stock
Broil Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #316203200
This oven broil element is a high-performance heating component designed to deliver intense, direct heat from the top of the oven cavity. Measuring approximately 12 ½ inches by 18 ½ inches, it operates at 3000 watts and 240 volts, making it suitable for broiling and contributing to certain baking functions. Positioned at the top interior of the oven, it ensures even heat distribution for optimal cooking results. This element is commonly used as a replacement in electric ranges experiencing reduced or no heat during broil or bake cycles. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, removing the old element, and securing the new one using existing mounting brackets and electrical connectors. It is compatible with a variety of household ranges and is engineered for durability and consistent performance.
DRAWER GLIDE – Part Number: 316407402
$18.31
In Stock
DRAWER GLIDE
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★★★★★
(13)
Part #316407402
This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If your glide is damaged or missing, replacing it could solve any difficulty using the drawer. First, remove the storage drawer and locate the rear glide on the side. Next, remove the glide by taking out the screws. Replace new glide by placing tabs into the cut-out. If you are replacing both rear drawer glides, then repeat the same on the other side. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and guidance.

Common Symptoms of the 79090010310

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Back Burner didn't function
136 of 152 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Burke, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Range would not come on
107 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MaryLou from Monroe, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir es.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
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burner shorted out
61 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Encinitas, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.
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