79012 (ASW1SER) LG Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 79012
[Viewing 5 of 5]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Refrigerator Water Filter LT600P
PartSelect #: PS3591904
Manufacturer #: 5231JA2006F
This refrigerator water filter is designed to improve the taste and odor of both water and ice by reducing a wide range of contaminants. Utilizing an activated carbon block filtration method, it effec...
$70.38
In Stock
Bushing
PartSelect #: PS3524960
Manufacturer #: 4984JJ3003A
This refrigerator door hinge bushing is a durable white plastic component that provides a smooth pivot point for the hinge pin, helping keep the door properly aligned and sealed. It is commonly used t...
$15.00
In Stock
Compressor Start Relay
PartSelect #: PS9865140
Manufacturer #: 6749C-0014E
Introducing the reliable LG Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay Thermistor Assembly. This assembly is designed specifically for some models of LG fridges and is critical for maintaining your refrigera...
$45.29
In Stock
Ice Maker Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3528723
Manufacturer #: 5989JA0002N
This ice maker assembly is a genuine OEM replacement unit for LG refrigerators. It is responsible for producing and dispensing ice cubes. You can find the ice maker assembly inside the freezer compart...
No Longer Available
Guide Rail Assembly - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS3524811
Manufacturer #: 4975JJ2002A
$45.29
In Stock
Water Valve
PartSelect #: PS10065037
Manufacturer #: 5220JB2010T
This water inlet valve is a genuine replacement part that controls the flow of water to your refrigerator’s ice maker and dispenser, helping ensure steady ice production and proper dispensing. It feat...
$164.47
In Stock
Exact Part matches for your search term
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1/2" (13 mm) W x 12" (305 mm) L 80 Grit A/Z DynaCut Belt
This part number matches the current model number 79012
PartSelect #: PS17821646
Manufacturer #: 79012
$6.40
Special Order
Questions And Answers for 79012
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Common Symptoms of the 79012
[Viewing 6 of 6]Door won’t open or close
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Will Not Start
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Fridge too warm
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
old bushing worn and broken
removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door.
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....
Parts Used:
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Jerry from CORSICANA, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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bottom door dropped slightly and bottom hinge area rubbing on steel door support
removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.
Parts Used:
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Louis from PHILADELPHIA, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
12 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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icemaker stopped working
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp
... Read more
enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
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Parts Used:
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Norris from Telford, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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