This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley, allowing all the parts to work together, spinning the drum as the motor rotates. If the drum will not turn...Read more when the dryer is turned on the belt is likely broken. It is common for belts to stretch or become brittle over time, which is what leads to the breakage. If broken, it should be replaced; the drum simply cannot spin without this belt. Refer to your model number and user manual to check if this part is right for you. Ensure you use work gloves to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair. Please note: When comparing the length of your old belt to the length of the belt as stated here, remember that a small amount of stretching and contortion may occur with belts over time for a range of different reasons. Unless your belt is drastically different in length, this belt is what you are looking for despite any small inaccuracies. You will need to remove power to your appliance, remove the main panel, and access the motor drive to slip your new belt back into place.
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The front upper felt glide pad with three nylon glides also includes adhesive, essential for mounting accurately. For this project you will nee...Read mored a putty knife, Phillips screwdriver, and a wire brush. This repair is meant to fix issues such as an abnormal amount of noise or the dryer not tumbling as it should. Consider replacing your belt at the same time if you have a dryer more than 5 years old, as it is likely worn.
The door strike is attached to the door of your dryer and holds the door closed. If your dryer door is not closing, this might be due to the door strike needing to be replaced. This is a simple repair that should only take a few minutes to complete. The package contains one strike. Open the dryer door, and use a flat head screw driver to ...Read moresnap the old strike out if it has not fallen out already. Simply push the gasket out of the way, squeeze together the strike and place inside of the opening. Wiggle to ensure it is set in place properly.
This drain hose is designed for use in your washer. The function of this part is to carry water from the drain pump to the house drain. If your washer is leaking or will not drain, you may need to replace the drain hose. This part is black in color and is made of plastic. This drain hose comes with a 90-degree elbow attachment. Before you...Read more begin this repair, be sure to disconnect the power supply, as well as the water supply to the washer. This part is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operating, you might need to replace the tension idler pulley. The tension idler pulley works in conjunction with the drive belt, so you might need ...Read moreto replace the belt as well as the pulley. Once the old pulley has been removed from the washer, you will need to transfer the spring and bushing from the old pulley to the new one before re-attaching it to the washer.
This idler pulley assembly is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your washer/dryer. The assembly includes the idler pulley and arm. The idler pulley provides tension for the belt to rotate the drum. You may notice your idler pulley making a sqeaking or squealing noise, signalling that it needs to be replaced.
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Drum belt broke
210 of 311 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Adrian from Middletown, MD
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers
Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on. This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
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Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.
182 of 251 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
William from Boise, ID
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front pa
... Read morenel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.
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Leaking washing machine; water would not shut off on fill up and rinse
92 of 106 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Aaron from Williamson, WV
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers
Replacing the switch is relatively easy, however, I would caution all experiencing similar problems one thing. Before assuming, as I did, that the switch was bad, first remove the panel of the washer that houses the washing tub/basin. On the back of the tub, check to make sure that the tube connecting the tub and switch has not come off
... Read more from the tub as it did in my situation. The solution to my problem of a leaking washing machine where the water would not stop filling on both wash and rinse cycles was simply reattaching the tube to the tub. If I would have checked that first, total job completion time would have been under 15 minutes. Hope this helps. If you need to replace the actual switch, remove the knobs, screws, and panel. Remove the wires, tube, and screw from the switch and reassemble new switch. That took me about 30-45 minutes.