This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if t...Read morehe bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving, that is a...Read more sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 88 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The front upper felt glide pad with three nylon glides also includes adhesive, essential for mounting accurately. For this project you will nee...Read mored a putty knife, Phillips screwdriver, and a wire brush. This repair is meant to fix issues such as an abnormal amount of noise or the dryer not tumbling as it should. Consider replacing your belt at the same time if you have a dryer more than 5 years old, as it is likely worn.
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although rep...Read morelacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
The front lower drum seal is used in the assembly of dryers. This seal helps keep your appliance running quietly. It allows the drum to smoothly rotate on the front panel. If you notice brown marks on your clothing, if the dry cycle is taking long, or if there are unusually loud noises, the seal might be worn down. If that is the case, yo...Read moreu will need to replace the seal. This replacement part is made out of felt. The high temperature adhesive required to install this seal is sold separately. Before you begin any repair work, make sure the appliance has been unplugged.
The door latch is designed to keep your dryer door closed, even during the drying cycle. If your dryer door will not stay closed, the drying cycle might not start, or it could stop suddenly. If you notice this is happening, check the latch itself for any physical damage. If you notice that it is damaged, the latch should be replaced strai...Read moreght away. This genuine OEM part is compatible with different brands and models, so check to make sure it will properly fit yours before ordering. This door latch kit comes with both the strike and the catch. We suggest replacing both parts of the door latch at the same time.
This kit contains two coils, one is a two-wire secondary coil and the other is a three-wire booster coil. Both coils in the ignition coil kit should be used together in the clothes dryer. Some of the symptoms that this kit could be a solution for are: If there is no heat, not enough heat, or clothes takes too long to dry. In this case, th...Read moree gas valve coils can be defective and replacing this part will help. Customers rate this project as easy. Refer to the installation diagram for further instructions. For safety, unplug your dryer before repair.
Located at the front of the dryer, this lint filter traps lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing out of the dryer drum. This part measures approximately 12 inches long x 7 inches high, has a plastic frame, and a mesh body to catch debris. If your filter needs cleaning, the dryer cycle will take longer due to a buildup of lint or fab...Read moreric softener affecting the air flow through the filter. If there is a buildup, try scrubbing the filter with hot water and soap. If the filter is damaged or torn, it should be replaced. Cleaning the lint filter before starting the drying cycle is a great way to ensure your dryer performs properly.
The door strike is attached to the door of your dryer and holds the door closed. If your dryer door is not closing, this might be due to the door strike needing to be replaced. This is a simple repair that should only take a few minutes to complete. The package contains one strike. Open the dryer door, and use a flat head screw driver to ...Read moresnap the old strike out if it has not fallen out already. Simply push the gasket out of the way, squeeze together the strike and place inside of the opening. Wiggle to ensure it is set in place properly.
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Squealing noise
532 of 554 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Cynthia from Lexington, SC
Easy
1- 2 hours
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle.
1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum be
... Read morelt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
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Motor would hum but not turn on when start knob was turned.
215 of 251 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Elvis from Miami, FL
Easy
More than 2 hours
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The motor bearings had stiffened up – classic planned obsolescence.
I could tell the motor was bad, because when I tried to spin the drum by hand, it wouldn't turn in any direction. (Normally it can turn fairly easily.)
(Helpful hint: As you remove screws / parts, place them in a plastic baggie, and write on the
... Read morebaggie from whence they came. This is especially helpful if you have to order parts and then wait a few days for them to arrive.)
You can replace the starter motor without removing the drum, but it is easier if you do remove the drum. Plus, I decided to also replace the drum belt, since it was 9 years old and is a wear part.
UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE YOU BEGIN.
1. Pop off the top cover; it has two spring clips at the front, then it hinges up. Disconnect the green grounding wire at the back, then slip the cover off the hinges and set it aside.
2. Remove the front panel:
a. Looking down into the dryer, disconnect the electrical harnesses that go between the front controls and the body. You may have to cut a nylon cable tie to access one or more. (Note that they have shapes that won't allow you to mix them up later). Also, there are two wires that attach to connectors in the top middle of the dryer, which are difficult to get at; you may need a needle nose pliers to pull them. Remember their color-coding for reinstallation.
b. Remove the two phillips screws located about 8 inches from the top, on either side, inside the body, that hold the front panel in place.
c. The front panel is now held in place by spring clips. Pry it gently to pop it loose. It will hinge out, then you can pull it up. Notice how the front piece has felt pads that serve to hold the front of the drum; you'll line it up the same way when it goes back together. Set the front panel aside.
3. Remove the rear motor vent plate. a. It is at the back, lower right of the dryer (which is lower left once you're behind it). 2 phillips screws hold it in place.
b. Now look inside to see the motor and belt. Memorize how the belt feeds around the motor pulley and the larger, white plastic tensioner pulley. Notice how the rear motor bearing sits in a half-round metal plate, held down by a spring clip. (Make a drawing if you like.)
c. Move the spring- loaded tensioner arm to take tension off the belt, then slip the belt off the motor pulley.
d. Notice that the tensioner pulley, arm and spring are all held in place by the spring. Note that the tensioner pulley can slip off its shaft. Note these things for when you put it all back together later.
e. Now undo the tensioner arm spring and remove the arm, pulley and spring. Set them aside.
4. Remove the drum:
a. There is a yellowish plastic block at the top front of the open dryer body that holds the drum. Take it out with a phillips screwdriver.
b. Slip the now un-tensioned belt off the drum, to the back, so it hangs over the heater element body. You can leave it there for now, so you don't forget to install it before you put everything back together. If you're going to replace the belt, now is a good time to do so. (Check the length of the new belt against the old one, to make sure they're the same.)
c. Now you can remove the drum. It uses a center ball in a socket joint at the back to hold it in place. Use a screwdriver to lever upward on the back of the drum. This will pop the ball up, and then you can pull the drum out from the front.
5. Clean it up. Now is a very good time to vacuum out any lint in the fan area, inside the dryer body, etc. Also consider removing the lint trap assembly from the dryer front ( 2 phillips screws) and vacuuming it out as well.
6. Remove the motor.
a. First, remove the fan that's attached to the front of the motor. Use a socket (7/8", I think) to unscrew the fan from the front of the motor shaft. IMPORTANT: The fan has a plastic hex nut sh