3LMVWC415FW0 Maytag Washer - Overview
Sections of the 3LMVWC415FW0
[Viewing 6 of 6]
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Drive Hub Kit
PartSelect #: PS6012095
Manufacturer #: W10528947
This basket drive hub kit is a vital component in select washing machines, designed to connect the wash basket to the central drive shaft, enabling proper rotation during wash and spin cycles. It play...
$27.36
In Stock
Dryer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Washer
PartSelect #: PS11742027
Manufacturer #: WP3949550
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
$12.85
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$24.15
In Stock
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installat...
$9.62
In Stock
Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner - 3 pack
PartSelect #: PS1960673
Manufacturer #: W10135699
This washing machine cleaner includes three time-release tablets designed to remove odor-causing residues, grime, and buildup from high-efficiency and top-load washing machines. The tablets work by cl...
$20.36
Special Order
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$7.47
In Stock
STRIKE
PartSelect #: PS11726338
Manufacturer #: W10837741
This is a lid strike for various models of top-load washing machines. Lid strikes are designed to engage with the lid switch and communicate to the control board that the washer can start. If your was...
$21.45
In Stock
Lid Bumper
PartSelect #: PS11747040
Manufacturer #: WP9724509
This gray and white washer lid bumper contains a rubber bottom and is sold individually.
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Drain Hose
PartSelect #: PS12578897
Manufacturer #: W11244231
The drain hose carries used water from the washer to your house drain.
$26.82
In Stock
Screw, 8-16 x 1.000
PartSelect #: PS11746167
Manufacturer #: WP8533953
Sold individually.
$7.47
In Stock
Spray Paint - 12 oz. - White
PartSelect #: PS347819
Manufacturer #: 350930
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to...
$36.85
In Stock
Common Symptoms of the 3LMVWC415FW0
[Viewing 12 of 12]Will not agitate
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Leaking
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Spinning Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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Spins slowly
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Locking Issues
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Lid or door won’t close
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Draining Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Timer Not Working
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Hub had warn its grooved teeth off and washer wouldnt agitate
ordered hub and it shipped quickly. I was able to put the hub in place and screw the screws in. you want to tighten them down slowly and go around to each screw tightening a little at a time so you don't break the hub. as you tighten the screws down the hub slides down flush. its impossible to just push the hub on with your hand. Buttoned
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it back up and got caught up on laundry. good day when the washer is fixed.
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Parts Used:
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Allison from RICHFORD, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
65 of 90 people
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Waher would not spin and made noise
Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install
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and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!
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Parts Used:
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Andrew from SYLVANIA, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
25 of 29 people
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washer not agitating
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
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the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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Parts Used:
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David from EAST AMHERST, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
22 of 23 people
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