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3639507780
3639507780 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 3639507780
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Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$216.23
In Stock
Dual Inlet Water Valve
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$61.57
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$9.03
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306911
Manufacturer #: WR72X207
This drawer track supports the left hand side of the sliding drawer.
$39.67
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306910
Manufacturer #: WR72X206
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
$42.89
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306913
Manufacturer #: WR72X209
The drawer slide rail in your refrigerator allows the door bin to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing it will need to be replaced. This slide rail is sold individually...
$28.13
In Stock
Defrost Timer
PartSelect #: PS310858
Manufacturer #: WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
$50.71
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306912
Manufacturer #: WR72X208
This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not ...
$27.02
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left or Right Side
PartSelect #: PS298758
Manufacturer #: WR2X7975
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf.
$34.94
In Stock
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
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Questions And Answers for 3639507780
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Common Symptoms of the 3639507780
[Viewing 18 of 18]Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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Parts Used:
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anthony from thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people
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Refrigerator temp was warm
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c
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ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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Parts Used:
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Adrian from Louisville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
124 of 143 people
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Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people
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