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36394 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Models starting with 36394

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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X240
$49.61
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(66)
Part #WR72X240
This drawer slide rail is for the right side of your refrigerator. The drawer slide rail attaches horizontally to the refrigerator wall and supports the drawer so it can easily slide in and out. If the drawer slide track is broken, not sliding, or the fridge is not dispensing water, replacing this part could solve the issue. Make sure to unplug the refrigerator from the power source and wear gloves to protect your hands when installing this part. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further guidance and instruction.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X239
$54.10
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(34)
Part #WR72X239
This is a manufacturer-approved drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. This slide rail is for the left side of the fridge. All you need to complete this repair is a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the shelves above and below the slide rail so you have room to access it. Unscrew the slide rail and replace it with the new one.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WR2X4901
$33.78
In Stock
Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X4901
This refrigerator door hinge cam riser is designed to ensure smooth and consistent door movement. Installed directly on the door, it helps the appliance open and close properly by guiding the door to rise and fall gently, which also supports a secure seal. Made from durable plastic, this part is ideal for resolving issues such as doors that stick, fail to seal correctly, or make unusual noises during operation.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X207
$55.29
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WR72X207
This drawer track supports the left hand side of the sliding drawer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X206
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WR72X206
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X209
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR72X209
The drawer slide rail in your refrigerator allows the door bin to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing it will need to be replaced. This slide rail is sold individually, and is for the left side of your refrigerator drawer bin. Be sure to order the correct replacement rail for your drawer. The rail is approximately 15 inches wide and is made of white plastic.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X208
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR72X208
This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not be able to slide into position. This slide rail is for the right side of the refrigerator and is sold individually, so be sure to order the slide rail for the correct side. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 15 inches in length. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Defrost Heater with Thermostat – Part Number: WR51X442
$107.66
In Stock
Defrost Heater with Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WR51X442
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature. Used with side by side models.
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left or Right Side – Part Number: WR2X7975
$45.29
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left or Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR2X7975
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf.

Exact Part matches for your search term

MC30 HANDLE BACKING PANE – Part Number: 36394
No Longer Available
MC30 HANDLE BACKING PANE
This part number matches the current model number 36394
Part #36394
Crankshaft – Part Number: 36394
No Longer Available
Crankshaft
This part number matches the current model number 36394
Part #36394
HEATING ELEMENT – Part Number: 36394
$201.61
Special Order
HEATING ELEMENT
This part number matches the current model number 36394
Part #36394

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Door would not automatically close.
180 of 194 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from North eastham, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.

One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.

Purchased part 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.

Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.

1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.

2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.

3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.

4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.

5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover

6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.
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Drawer slide broke due to overloading with beer.
103 of 123 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ashley from Brandon, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I took a beer out and opened it then took a sip. Then I went into my garage and searched for my Black and Decker power drill with a phililps head on it. Failure to locate a phillips head bit i took another sip of beer and took out one of those old fashion screw drivers. I went back into the kitchen and much to my dismay the fridg e didnt fix itself. After another sip of beer I took the old slide out and took it to the outside garbage. On my way around the house my neighbor started to mock my home fix-it skills and his back yard became the new home for the broken slide. I put the new slide in, reinstalled the drawer, and filled it with beer.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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