EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

363859 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Models starting with 363859

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WR2X4901
$33.78
In Stock
Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X4901
This refrigerator door hinge cam riser is designed to ensure smooth and consistent door movement. Installed directly on the door, it helps the appliance open and close properly by guiding the door to rise and fall gently, which also supports a secure seal. Made from durable plastic, this part is ideal for resolving issues such as doors that stick, fail to seal correctly, or make unusual noises during operation.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X207
$55.29
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WR72X207
This drawer track supports the left hand side of the sliding drawer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X206
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WR72X206
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X209
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR72X209
The drawer slide rail in your refrigerator allows the door bin to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing it will need to be replaced. This slide rail is sold individually, and is for the left side of your refrigerator drawer bin. Be sure to order the correct replacement rail for your drawer. The rail is approximately 15 inches wide and is made of white plastic.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X208
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR72X208
This is a replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The slide rails allow the crisper pans to slide in and out efficiently. If the slide rail is broken or missing, the crisper pan will not be able to slide into position. This slide rail is for the right side of the refrigerator and is sold individually, so be sure to order the slide rail for the correct side. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 15 inches in length. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: WR9X502
$78.14
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR9X502
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you notice that your fridge is too warm, the fridge is running for a long time or is leaking, it could be due to the defrost timer becoming inactive. The defrost timer is found underneath the light cover (may need to remove lightbulb) and will need to be removed along with the air inlet assembly and housing.
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left or Right Side – Part Number: WR2X7975
$45.29
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left or Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR2X7975
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf.
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly – Part Number: WR17X4312
$302.62
In Stock
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(26)
Part #WR17X4312
This auger and bucket assembly is used on 25 cubic feet and 27 cubic feet side by side models.
Dairy Door – Part Number: WR22X383
No Longer Available
Dairy Door
Part #WR22X383
Ice Bucket Auger Kit – Part Number: WR17X2740
No Longer Available
Ice Bucket Auger Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR17X2740
This ice bucket auger kit come with an auger and a blade. Please note: As per manufacture the part shown in the picture is no longer available. The updated helix coil is now approximately 5". If you currently have the original part you will need to order the complete auger/bucket assembly.

Common Symptoms of models starting with 363859

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Door would not automatically close.
180 of 194 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from North eastham, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.

One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.

Purchased part 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.

Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.

1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.

2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.

3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.

4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.

5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover

6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
93 of 110 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wanda from Cabins, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!