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36379267991 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
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★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Refrigerator Outlet Valve Kit – Part Number: WR57X10033
$56.34
In Stock
Refrigerator Outlet Valve Kit
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★★★★★
(25)
Part #WR57X10033
The water inlet valve on your refrigerator allows water to enter the ice maker and water dispenser. If your ice maker or water dispenser is not functioning properly, or you notice a leak, you may need to replace the single outlet valve. This single outlet valve has 1/4-inch compressions fittings and is intended for use with refrigerators that make crescent-shaped ice cubes. As per the manufacturer, this valve has a new quick connection. You must cut the retaining nut off your current plastic water line, and gently push it into the new valve. Be sure to disconnect the water and power sources from the refrigerator before you begin this repair.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
$61.39
In Stock
Run Capacitor
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Right Side – Part Number: WR2X8700
No Longer Available
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Right Side
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(20)
Part #WR2X8700
This is the replacement door shelf retainer bar end cap for your refrigerator. An end cap connects to the lower shelf bar on either side, and then snaps into position on the refrigerator door, allowing you to store items in the refrigerator door. To replace the end cap, simply disengage the whole bar assembly from the refrigerator door, then disengage the hook on the end cap from the rest of the bar assembly. Snap the end cap back into place, and connect it back to the refrigerator door. This part is sold individually.
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left Side – Part Number: WR2X8699
No Longer Available
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left Side
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(7)
Part #WR2X8699
This part is the replacement door shelf retainer bar end cap for the left side of your refrigerator door. The end cap is approximately 4 inches by 5 inches and is made of white plastic. The end cap snaps into place on the refrigerator door so you can attach the door shelf retainer bar to the inner door liner. The main reason to replace the end cap is if it is broken, and the retainer bar cannot connect to the refrigerator door. To replace the end cap, simply disconnect it from the refrigerator door and the shelf retainer bar, and replace it with a new end cap. This part is for the left side of the shelf bar only, and the cap for the right side is sold separately. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Package of 12 Screws – Part Number: WZ4X244D
No Longer Available
Package of 12 Screws
Part #WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these screws. The screws are approximately ¾ of an inch in length.
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR17X2769
No Longer Available
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
$23.16
In Stock
Light Socket
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(19)
Part #WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty socket. It is important to determine if the light bulb is simply burned out, or if the socket is causing the issue. Be sure to disconnect your refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. This socket is black in color and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR17X2770
No Longer Available
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR17X2770
This is the replacement vegetable drawer side rail for the left side of your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 18 inches long, and 6 inches wide. The slide rail supports the crisper drawer as it slides in and out. If the slide rail is broken, you may have difficulty sliding the drawer in and out. This rail is for the left side of the drawer, and the slide for the right side is sold separately. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part.
Screw – Part Number: WR01X10590
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WR01X10590
This refrigerator door handle mounting screw connects your refrigerator door to the handle. The part is less than 1 inch in length, and can come in both silver and gold colors. When installing this screw, make sure to avoid cross-threading and use reasonable torque to avoid damage to components. This part is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. This part is sold individually.

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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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Sticking Light Switch
121 of 177 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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