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36358047891 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Door Closing Cam – Part Number: WR2X4901
$33.78
In Stock
Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X4901
This refrigerator door hinge cam riser is designed to ensure smooth and consistent door movement. Installed directly on the door, it helps the appliance open and close properly by guiding the door to rise and fall gently, which also supports a secure seal. Made from durable plastic, this part is ideal for resolving issues such as doors that stick, fail to seal correctly, or make unusual noises during operation.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X10010
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR72X10010
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one side, or it will not stay in place at all. The drawer slide rail is for the left side of the drawer only, so be sure to check that you are replacing the correct drawer rail. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X10009
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR72X10009
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
1/4 Tubing Nut – Part Number: WR57X57
$15.00
Special Order
1/4 Tubing Nut
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR57X57
This is a quarter tubing nut and is sold individually. The tubing nut works in conjunction with your refrigerator/freezer and is made entirely of plastic. The function of this part is to connect the lines that supply water to your ice maker and water dispenser. The most common reason or needing to replace this part is if fluid is leaking from the water line to your icemaker or water dispenser. The tools you will need to make this repair include a nut driver, a pair of pliers, and a screwdriver set.
Screw 12-24 tt hx .811 – Part Number: WR01X10600
$15.00
In Stock
Screw 12-24 tt hx .811
Part #WR01X10600
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V – Part Number: WR60X187
$252.05
On Order
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR60X187
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra water in the drain pan.
Freezer Wire Shelf – Part Number: WR71X10715
No Longer Available
Freezer Wire Shelf
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR71X10715
Let's talk about your GE appliance and its predicament. Facing a little water issue? Not sure how to handle it? Relax. We have just the solution for you - our trusted GE Float Switch Assembly. It plays a crucial role in keeping your appliance safe and sound. Here's why it's so important: Think of this component as a vigilant guard on duty 24/7. Its job is to control your water fill valve, stepping in to shut it off if the water level gets too high before the fill timer says it's fine. In simple terms, it helps prevent flooding. No excess water, no nasty floods, and no damage to your precious appliance ? isn?t that a relief? Robust and reliable, the GE Float Switch Assembly certainly proves it's worth its weight in gold when it comes to preventing water-related disasters. So upgrade to this little lifesaver now and secure the safety and functionality of your dishwasher. Trust us, your appliance will thank you with a smooth and flawless performance.
Lower Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X10008
No Longer Available

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Door would not automatically close.
180 of 194 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from North eastham, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.

One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.

Purchased part 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.

Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.

1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.

2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.

3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.

4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.

5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover

6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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Ice maker stopped working
84 of 117 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from West Bloomfield, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.

The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.
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