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35044262 (ABWEEUS) LG Washer Dryer Combo - Overview

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4 PACK ROLLER ASSEMBLY – Part Number: 4581EL2002L
$138.79
In Stock
4 PACK ROLLER ASSEMBLY
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Part #4581EL2002L
This part is sold individually. The drum support roller is found in your dryer. It is used to hold the drum in place in the cabinet while letting the drum rotate on the support rollers. It is recommended that you replace both rollers at once. You may notice that this part needs to be replaced if you are experiencing a squeaking noise, which could be due to the bearing going bad. The bearing could be severely damaged if you hear a very loud thumping noise, much like you would when you are drying a pair of shoes.
Dryer Lint Filter – Part Number: 5231EL1003B
$49.95
In Stock
Dryer Lint Filter
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Part #5231EL1003B
The lint filter in your dryer is used to collect lint as it passes through the dryer vent. If you notice that your dryer is not providing enough heat, or if it takes too long to dry, you may need to replace the lint filter. You should also replace the lint filter if you notice it is damaged during regular maintenance. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete the repair, simply remove the old lint filter and replace it with the new one. You may want to use a flat head screwdriver to remove any residual lint before you install the new filter.
Moisture Sensor – Part Number: 6500EL3001A
$21.45
In Stock
Moisture Sensor
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Part #6500EL3001A
The sensor controls the temperature in your dryer and will turn off once your clothes have reached the desired dryness level. If you notice that your dryer is not giving off enough heat to dry the clothes or is taking too long to dry, this may indicate that a repair to the senor is required. To access this part, you will need to remove the front bulk head. To remove this, you will need to remove the screws securing the top. Uninstall the screws that support the control panel and lift. Remove screws holding the support bracket in place so you can detach this piece. Detach the wire harness and remove the wire, then set the bracket aside. You will now open the dryer door and release it by taking out the bottom two screws. Disconnect the wire harness and moisture sensor wire harness, remove screws from front bulk head, and remove screws that secure the duct housing. You should be able to completely remove the bulk head. You will find the sensor underneath the lint filter grill, which will also need to be removed.
Dryer Thermistor – Part Number: 6323EL2001B
$103.35
Special Order
Dryer Thermistor
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Part #6323EL2001B
This dryer thermistor temperature sensor helps monitor and regulate the temperature inside a dryer. This part includes the wire harness. If your dryer overheats, does not produce enough heat, or takes too long to dry, then the thermistor might be defective or damaged. This can cause a fault code and could begin either prolonging or shortening drying time. As a safety precaution, make sure to unplug the dryer from the power source before beginning this installation, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
Blower Thermostat – Part Number: 6931EL3002M
$51.61
In Stock
Blower Thermostat
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Part #6931EL3002M
The thermostat is a part for your dryer, and it is roughly 1 inch long by roughly 1.5 inches wide. The purpose of the thermostat is to measure the temperature of the air inside your dryer drum. As the air is being measured, it will turn the heat on or off in order to maintain a stable temperature within the drum. The most common reason you would need to replace your thermostat is if your dryer is not receiving enough heat, or any heat at all.The tools you will need to complete this repair include a Phillips screwdriver, and a flat-head screwdriver.
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit – Part Number: AGM30045804
$96.17
In Stock
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit
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Part #AGM30045804
This dryer thermistor temperature sensor helps monitor and regulate the temperature inside a dryer. This part includes the wire harness. If your dryer overheats, does not produce enough heat, or takes too long to dry, then the thermistor might be defective or damaged. This can cause a fault code and could begin either prolonging or shortening drying time. As a safety precaution, make sure to unplug the dryer from the power source before beginning this installation, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
Gas Igniter – Part Number: 5318EL3001A
$125.62
In Stock
Gas Igniter
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Part #5318EL3001A
This spiral-style gas burner igniter is designed for use in select gas dryers and plays a crucial role in generating the heat needed to dry clothes. Operating at 120 volts, the igniter glows red hot during the drying cycle to ignite the gas that heats the drum. If your dryer runs but fails to produce heat, the igniter may be faulty and should be replaced. The assembly includes the igniter, bracket, wire harness, and plug for straightforward installation. Always disconnect the dryer from power before beginning any repairs to ensure safety.
Felt Seal – Part Number: 4036EL3001A
$45.29
In Stock
Felt Seal
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Part #4036EL3001A
This genuine OEM felt gasket provides a cushioned seal between the inner tub of your electric dryer and the rear panel. It prevents your clothes from getting snagged and helps in heat retention. You will find it around the circumference of the drum. The most typical reason for replacing the felt seal is when it becomes worn. It is important to note that this rear seal is sold separately from the front seal and the adhesive needed to install it.
Safety Switch Assembly – Part Number: EBF61496102
$47.40
In Stock
Pulley Idle – Part Number: 4560EL3001A
$30.53
In Stock
Dryer Locker Assembly – Part Number: 4027EL1001A
$29.47
In Stock
Poly-V Drive Belt – Part Number: 4400EL2001A
$37.35
Special Order
Poly-V Drive Belt
Part #4400EL2001A
This belt helps rotate from the drive motor to the drum.

Common Symptoms of the 35044262

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Dryer making a thumping and squealing noise when running
132 of 171 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from WAVERLY, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Had to replace front drum support rollers. Removed screws underneath top in back that held bracket that keeps top in place. Slid top towards rear and lifted up. Removed 4 screws that hold plastic front panel in place (inside..2 on each corner) Unplugged front panel electric plugs to remove panel. Opened door..removed 2 screws at bottom of door opening. Removed screws on top of front panel. Unplugged door switch plug. Removed front panel. Removed right front roller with 9/16th wrench for nut. Adjustable for back of stud. Lifted up on drum to get roller out. Reversed to install. Left roller a bit harder to get to stud. Removed and installed same as right side. Did not attempt to replace rear rollers. Have them if needed but very much more involved to replace.
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Screeching during operation
66 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CAROL from NAMPA, ID
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piec e of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....
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No heat; flow-sense error diagnosed but no blockage in exhaust.
17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from MANALAPAN, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.

Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.
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