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31552
31552 (ABWETEU) LG Washer Dryer Combo - Overview
Sections of the 31552
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Heavy Duty Degreaser
This part number matches the current model number 31552
PartSelect #: PS2360191
Manufacturer #: 31552A
16 Ounce.
No Longer Available
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
PULSATOR ASSEMBLY
PartSelect #: PS12588963
Manufacturer #: AGZ72909711
This is a pulsator assembly, also known as an agitator, for your washing machine. This pulsator sits at the bottom of your washer and is what is used as the main driving force to wash your clothes. Th...
$179.18
In Stock
Washer Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS12374721
Manufacturer #: AJU75152601
This is an authentic LG water inlet valve for a top-load washer. It is designed to control the flow of water into the washer. If your washer is filling slowly, making loud noises, overflowing, or stop...
$126.23
In Stock
Pulsator Cap
PartSelect #: PS3525704
Manufacturer #: 5006EA3009B
This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
$30.01
In Stock
Washer Drain Pump Assembly
PartSelect #: PS11706439
Manufacturer #: 5859EA1004P
This drain pump is for washers. Drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle. Unplug the washer before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
$197.69
In Stock
Tub-to-Pump Hose
PartSelect #: PS3617213
Manufacturer #: AEM73213001
This is a drain hose assembly for top-load models of LG washing machines. This hose specifically is used to allow water to drain from the tub to the drain pump of the washer. This hose is made of plas...
$32.17
In Stock
Clutch Housing Assembly with Mode Shifter
PartSelect #: PS11708484
Manufacturer #: AEN73131406
This clutch housing assembly with mode shifter, or washer drive shaft and shifter assembly, is made for your washer. It connects the appliance wash plate to the motor so the washer can shift the drive...
$259.65
In Stock
Switch Assembly,Sensor
PartSelect #: PS3529177
Manufacturer #: 6501EA1001R
This water-level pressure switch in your wash monitors and regulates the water levels throughout the fill, wash, and rinse cycles. You will usually find it inside the control panel or near the tub. It...
$49.27
In Stock
HOSE ASSEMBLY,DRAIN
PartSelect #: PS8749199
Manufacturer #: AEM73732901
This drain hose is a genuine OEM replacement part supplied by LG for use in their washing machines. It is a light gray pipe with a diameter of 1.25 inches. The drain hose is connected to the drain pum...
$36.10
In Stock
SWITCH ASSEMBLY
PartSelect #: PS8751171
Manufacturer #: EBF61674802
This part is the replacement switch assembly for your top-load washer. It contains the switch mechanism and the connecting wire that hooks the door latch to the electrical system of the washer. The li...
$127.02
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 31552
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Common Symptoms of the 31552
[Viewing 5 of 5]Leaking
Fixed by
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Lid or door won’t close
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No hot or cold water
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
It did not drain water, cycle stops at rinse+spin.
1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable su
... Read more
pplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.
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Parts Used:
-
Jesus from El Paso, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set, Wrench set
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Water continued leaking into washer after the end of cycle through the water inlet valve.
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Flora from MIAMI, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
11 of 14 people
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LOUD GRINDING/ROARING NOISE, INTERMITTANT SPIN
Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. R ... Read more emove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
Good luck, you can do it.
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. R ... Read more emove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
Good luck, you can do it.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
MIKE from LANDENBERG, PA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thank you for voting!