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30D Tappan - Overview

Models starting with 30D

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Drip Bowl - 8" – Part Number: 316048413
$14.25
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(107)
Part #316048413
This chrome drip bowl is designed for use with electric cooktops and ranges. This drip bowl is sold individually. At the widest point this part has a diameter of approximately 10 inches. It sits beneath the surface burner element. It catches any drips or spills coming from the cookware on your burner. Because the cooktop is a high-traffic area of the kitchen, these bowls often get damaged, or get so dirty they can no longer be adequately cleaned. When replacing this part you need to remove the burner element. While you have it out we recommend inspecting the terminals and the element for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. Any of those things could be a sign of a bigger problem, and it indicates that the element and terminal block should be replaced.
Chrome Drip Bowl - 6" – Part Number: 316048414
$13.15
In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 6"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(111)
Part #316048414
The drip bowl catches grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. They are located under the heating elements. Drip bowls are often neglected and can become rusted and cracked. If your drip bowl is damaged, it could allow grease, food, or other spills to drip inside your range. This could become a fire hazard. This 6 inch chrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. To replace the drip bowl, remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. This part is sold individually.
Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: 5303935058
$15.20
In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(47)
Part #5303935058
This part connects the wire harness to the surface element and is used for ranges. The kit includes interchangeable mounting brackets, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing, and wires. If your range/oven is having symptoms such as burner not heating, heating elements not working, burning smell, or if the oven is making a buzzing noise then this could be the solution. The tools needed to replace the kit are wire strippers, a heat gun or hair dryer, and #1 square heard screw driver. Refer to the installation/instructional video for further guidance to accurately replace the element.
Flat Style Oven Igniter – Part Number: 5303935066
$47.25
In Stock
Flat Style Oven Igniter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(69)
Part #5303935066
This is a flat style oven igniter used to light the oven burner in a gas range. When the element in this igniter glows white hot, the gas is released from the safety valves, which lights the oven burner. If your range is not heating properly, or not heating at all, it might indicate a problem with this part. If the element in the igniter is only glowing red or orange, or not glowing at all, it will need to be replaced. This is a shorter style igniter. It is 3.72 inches in length, and it features an 18-inch wire lead. This kit includes the igniter, an instruction sheet, a mounting bracket, and the two ceramic wire nuts needed for installation. This part has an amperage range of 3.2 to 3.6. Unplug your appliance before you start any repair work.
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031
$16.07
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
Part #330031
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to the inner wiring of your appliance. Without this connection your burner element would not get the electrical current it needs to heat up. When your element will not heat at all, or if it is not heating properly it is likely an issue with the terminal block. You need to remove the element to replace this part. While you have the element out, inspect the element and the terminal for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. If you notice any damage to the element or the terminals we recommend you replace this part as well. This kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped high-temperature wire leads, two ceramic wire nuts, two heat-shrinking insulators, and a mounting screw. Before you begin this repair, make sure you have unplugged your appliance.
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 220V – Part Number: 316442300
$40.64
In Stock
Surface Element - 8 Inch - 220V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(29)
Part #316442300
If the burner element on your range will not heat up, or is damaged, it may need to be replaced. This part is 8 inches in diameter, and should not be confused with the smaller 6-inch model. The part is 220 Volts and 4 Turn. The burner element connects to the terminal block inside the range. To do this repair, simply remove the old surface element and replace it with the new part. This product is sold individually. As the surface element is hot when it is on, be sure to unplug the range from the power source before completing this repair.
Light Bulb – Part Number: 316538904
$27.45
In Stock
Light Bulb
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
Surface Element - 6 Inch – Part Number: 318372210
$37.35
In Stock
Surface Element - 6 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #318372210
This part is sold individually. This is a part for your stove top. The surface element is what your cookware sits on. The element supplies heat at varying temperatures. This may need to be replaced if the coil has shorted out or the terminal block shorted, and this caused the connectors at the end to burn out. The element is set in place by springs. You will need to push the springs in to release the old element. Make sure the drip bowl is lined up with the terminal block and press the new element into place.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: 5303917954
$41.75
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repair, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
Main Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: 5304409888
$40.60
In Stock
Main Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #5304409888
Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches the power cord to the inner wiring of your appliance. If the terminal block is faulty, your appliance will not get the power it needs to operate properly. When removing the old block pay close attention to the wire placement, this will make installing your new part much easier. If you notice any of the wires or wire terminals are corroded or damaged they will also need to be replaced.
Burner Switch Kit – Part Number: 5303935086
$50.33
In Stock
Burner Switch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #5303935086
This is a burner switch kit, also known as the surface element control switch repair kit, for ranges. This burner switch kit sends voltage to the surface element coil and it controls the stove top surface burner. If the following symptoms occur, installing the switch could be the solution to the problem: surface element not heating, overheating, or inconsistent heating. Usually, if the element is not defective, that is a sign there is an issue with the switch. The kit comes with several insert sizes, and includes screws as well. The tools needed for this project are a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers.
Drip Bowl - 8" – Part Number: 5308011431
No Longer Available
Drip Bowl - 8"
Part #5308011431
Sold individually.

Common Symptoms of models starting with 30D

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Oven quit heating.
571 of 628 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Darlington, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
After reading up on the problem of the gas oven not lighting I decided I needed to install a new igniter. I had read where some people just pulled a panel off the back and installed a new one.. yeah, no such luck with this model so I had to crawl into the broiler drawer space [which I had to clean out first]. Note, if you wear trifocal g lasses you might as well close your eyes and replace it by feel because there is no way to tilt your head back enough to see what you are doing and still get both arms and your chest in a broiler. Also be sure to remove all cats and dogs from the area before starting. They seem to think they can help or it's a game of hide and seek and they want to hide with you.. they were no help at all.
Other than that, it was quite easy.
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Oven was difficult to light, then stopped lighting altogether
284 of 370 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ritchie from Ithaca, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Turned off circuit breaker to stove
2. Removed the two screws holding down the floor of the oven (screws are at back.), and then lifted it out.
3. Removed the nut holding down the flame guard, and lifted it off.
4. Opened the bottom drawer.
5. Removed the protective cover in the back left of the oven at the bottom, first removing the one screw at the bottom that holds it. This reveals a white plug, presumably going to a fuse.
6. Disconnected the white plastic connector, lifting its front tab to release it.
7. The igniter wires go to two lugs that attach at the floor of the oven at the back (one goes via the now free white connector). Slide back the plastic lug covers and use pliers to pull off the lugs. Note that the wider one (on the right) goes to the top of the igniter, while the narrower one (on the left) goes to the bottom of the igniter via the white plastic connector.
8. Removed the two bolts holding the igniter.
9. At this point, the igniter comes out. Nice, since it means you can work on the wires in comfort.
10. Slide the flame retardant sleeves away from the igniter. I found in-line connections about 1.5 inches from the igniter, and cut the wires next to these (on the side away from the igniter, of course.), and stripped the final 3/8 inch. Shorten the wires on the replacement igniter so that they are 3 or 4 inches long, slide on the flame retardant sleeves, then strip the final 3/8ths inch. Use the provided caps to connect the wires. Bottom wire goes to the plastic connector, top wire goes to the wide lug.
11. Install the new igniter by connecting the lugs, sliding on their protective plastic sleeves, reconnecting the white plastic connector, screwing in the two igniter mounting screws, and reinstalling the corner cover. Put back the flame shield and floor of the oven. Turn on the circuit breaker, and it works!
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Oven Would Not Heat - Oven Ignitor Failure
156 of 233 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Fife Lake, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I first looked up my Model Number on PartSelect.com and looked at the schematic as well as Trouble Shooted my problem.

Reading the posts by others how they Removed, Replaced, and Repaired their Oven Ignitors, I used their helpful info, and of course did mine.

1. Unplugged my Oven/Stove.

2. Removed botto m storage door to get access to cover plate.

3. Removed oven racks inside oven to gain access to and removed Flame Cover.

4. Removed Screw holding Oven Ignitor in place.

5. Unplugged Ignitor Plug from feed wird in Oven from underneath.

6. Removed Oven Ignitor from the bottom area where storage drawer was.

7. Installed new Ignitor and replaced screw holding Ignitor assembly in place.

8. Replace Flame cover and racks.

9. Plugged in new ignitor underneath, and replaced cover plate.

10. Plugged in Stove/Oven and Oven began to heat! IGNITOR worked!

11. Replaced bottom drawer and slid Stove back into position.

All went easy and only difficulty was replacing cover plate below as it is awkward and having to line up screws/holes was a bit trying.

Using Work Light essential to see well, and, some screws may or can be hard to remove.

Both my neighbor and I ordered our Ignitors within a week of each other. My Oven was Amana his is a Tappan. His failed after a few weeks, but, PartSelect replaced promptly and we are all happy.
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