This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged or brittle over time. Replacing a worn or damaged line can help prevent leaks and restore reliable starting and performance.
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this essential component ensures clean fuel delivery, protecting the engine from potential damage caused by contaminants. Sold individually, the filt...Read moreer is built to meet original equipment standards for fit and function. Over time, the filter may become clogged, restricting fuel flow and making engine starts more difficult. For optimal performance, it should be replaced—not cleaned—at the first sign of blockage or wear.
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket set. This part comes directly from the manufacturer.
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
This is a genuine manufacturer approved replacement part designed for use with chainsaws. This part is an important safety feature because it prevents the chainsaw chain from flying off the bar if it breaks or comes loose from its track. It is made out of metal and it is sold individually. Please note the screw used to secure it is sold separately.
This Bar Pin Adjuster is an OEM part used to adjust the tension on the bar, which loosens or tightens the chain. It attaches to the slot in the bar, and the chainsaw bar adjusting screw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver. Refer to your make, model and diagram to ensure this part is correct.
This is a genuine Poulan replacement part, it is sold individually. Its purpose is to filter out dirt and debris from entering the carburetor and engine. Once this filter gets clogged it should be replaced. It may be a good idea to have an extra one one hand.
The chainsaw starter rope is a three-foot-long white rope that is approved by the original equipment manufacturer, and which wraps around the recoil pulley and is pulled to start the engine. Installation is rated as "Easy" by customers and requires a screw driver, pliers, and torx screwdriver. If the rope breaks it should be replaced. Ref...Read moreer to your make, model and diagram to ensure this rope is right for your machine.
Genuine Poulan replacement part, this item is sold individually. This Screw is used on the Chainsaws listed below. It is used to attach the Cylinder Shield to the main body of the Chainsaw. This is a size T-25 Torx Screw.
This is an authentic Craftsman replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with chainsaws. The oil cap connects to the saw\\\'s chassis by covering the oil fill spout to prevent spills and to prevent contaminants from entering the oil tank. This item is available as an individual replacement part. Tools are not necessary to install this item.
This OEM bar adjustment retainer is a metal component that securely holds the adjustment screw and pin in place, allowing you to adjust the chain tension. It is typically located near the front of the chainsaw, close to the guide bar. If the guide bar is over-pressured, the retainer can become stressed and fail, causing it to ride up on t...Read morehe screw. Signs of a damaged retainer include visible breaks or deformations. You may also have trouble in tightening or loosening the chain, as the screw may become loose during adjustment. To remove a faulty retainer, remove the side cover by loosening the nuts and the tension screw on it with a socket. Unscrew the guide bar and replace the damaged retainer. When installing the new retainer, ensure the cone points towards the adjustment pin. Please note that the replacement retainer is sold separately from the guide bar and adjustment pin.
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Fuel line deterioration and carb overhaul
8 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Edward from FREDERICKSBRG, VA
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
The machine was offered for free on FB marketplace. The person tried a rebuild of the carb, but could not figure out how to connect the fuel line, which feeds from the tank above the carb. I couldn’t either, so I went to a local parts dealer, who could not find a diameter the same size (it’s tiny). I assumed there may have been a fitting
... Read morein the tank, but if so, it was absent. The only parts that were found in the tank: a large filter in a 3/4”piece of larger tubing and this tiny fuel line was inserted into the other end. The resulting arrangement was long enough to reach the hole in the tank.Since the machine looked spectacularly clean, I used these parts to make it run.
1. Using diagonal cutters, I cut a very sharply angled end on the small line.
2. I generously lubricated the new line and the hole in the tank. I then took angled end of the new line and inserted it into the hole. Using a screwing type motion , I slowly worked it into the tank, using generous amounts of lubricant, until the line was far enough into the tank to grab from the fill hole with needle nose pliers. I then pulled and twisted until the line came out of the top of the tank.
3. I cut the angled end square at this point. I then inserted the filter into the larger tubing the cut about an inch longer than the filter Barb.I then lubed the larger line and the smaller line and pulled the line back into the tank from the bottom until the filter laid flat on the bottom of the tank.
4. At this point, I cut the end of the small line so that about an inch protruded from the bottom of the tank. I then re-lubed that line and inserted into a well lubricated length of larger line of sufficient length to reach the inlet on the carb.
About the carb: the donor of the machine had apparently attempted a rebuild. While it was very clean, he assembled it incorrectly. The metering diaphragm was pinched and he left off two of the four screws which held it together. I disassembled it, and using the correct parts assembled in the correct order, (there are parts for multiple applications included in the kit), mounted it back to the machine, and after about six or eight pulls, it roared to life. I did not get into the jets etc, because they seemed to work. This Walbro carb only has one inlet and no purge bulb, and after adjusting the carb it starts on the third pull every time using the choke as it was designed to.
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t
... Read morehat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
Split fuel line driving brother-in-law to frustration
1 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Howard from UNICOI, TN
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers
Seven screw, three case cover, two air cleaner, two carb mounting, pulled carb, drained tank, pulled old fuel line, treaded new one in, wire to thread, thread to angle cut fuel line. Reassemble, test, sharpen chain, retest…not exactly a doityourselfer, graduate degree in mechanical/industrial engineering and former medium/heavy mechanica
... Read morel. Get fuel line on carb prior to reassembly, line may need some stretching with a tapered punch.