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2784558815 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB32X107
$21.45
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
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Part #WB32X107
The drip bowl on your range is designed to catch any spills that may occur when cooking. This drip bowl is chrome in color and is 6 inches in diameter. The chrome drip bowl is intended for use with rolled, terminal-style plug-in surface element units. The drip bowl is located beneath the surface element, so you will need to remove the element prior to swapping out the old drip bowl for a new one. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy, and you will not require any tools to complete it. This part is sold individually.
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB32X106
$25.75
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
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Part #WB32X106
Drip bowls are located under the heating elements and catch grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. If your drip bowl is damaged or rusted, it could allow grease to drip inside your range. This 8 inch chrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. Installation is easy, just remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. Make sure the small hole on the bowl lines up with the element socket. Drip bowls are sold separately.
Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2600W – Part Number: WP660533
$33.69
In Stock
Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2600W
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Part #WP660533
The surface burner or element on your range provides the heat that you cook with. If your element will not heat, you may need to replace the surface burner. This surface burner is 8 inches in diameter and 2600 watts. The burner element is made of metal and has two prongs that connect it to the range. The manufacturer recommends you replace the burner receptacle at the same time that you replace the surface burner. Many of our customers have rated this repair as very easy. To complete the repair simply lift the old burner up and out, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect power to the range before beginning this repair.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719
$20.63
In Stock
Single Heating Element Support Clip
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Part #WB2X9719
The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this replacement should be the solution. The tools needed for this project are slip joint pliers. For safety precautions, make sure to unplug your range from the power source, or shut off the house circuit breaker before starting this project. Refer to the installation instructions for best results and accuracy.
Range Infinite Heat Switch Kit – Part Number: WB21X36771
$53.20
In Stock
Range Infinite Heat Switch Kit
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Part #WB21X36771
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$147.53
In Stock
Oven Sensor
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Part #WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17X210
$74.79
In Stock
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
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Part #WB17X210
This is a surface burner terminal block kit, also known as range surface element receptacle, for an oven, range, or stove. The kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip, and wires. This surface burner terminal block kit connects the wiring harness to the surface elements. It is important to shut off the power to the appliance before starting this repair. You will need to remove all four elements, trim rings, and drip bowls to access the terminal block on your stovetop. This is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the genuine manufacturer.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
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Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.
Screw – Part Number: WB1M1
$13.92
In Stock
Screw
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Part #WB1M1
Sold Individually.
Screw – Part Number: WB1X1130
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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(2)
Part #WB1X1130
Sold Individually.
Surface Burner - 6 Inch - 1250W – Part Number: WB30X256
$67.82
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the 2784558815

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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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There was no heat on the coils.
48 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaohui from East Lansing, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.
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Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
40 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
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