This freezer door key is designed for use with most upright and chest freezers. It is an authentic OEM replacement part. Your appliance has a lid or door that locks and unlocks, this key controls that function. If your key is lost or damaged this is the replacement you need. Be sure to store this key someplace safe, we also recommend that...Read more you store it away from the freezer. This part is made of plastic, is white in color, and it is sold individually.
This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater to maintain the set thermostat temperature, preventing the unit from being too warm or cold. The defrost timer may...Read more need to be replaced if the fridge will not maintain its temperature or has frost buildup. Depending on the model, it could be located on the rear panel or ceiling of the fresh food compartment. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before replacing this part.
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The run capacitor is attached to the compressor. This part is 120 volts and 15 mfd. The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your fre...Read moreezer. If your refrigerator is too warm, will not start, or your freezer section is too warm, you may need to replace this part. This is a genuine OEM part. Please remember to disconnect power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.
This door gasket, also known as a door seal, is sourced from the original equipment manufacturer for use in refrigerators and freezers. It is a flexible rubber strip that runs along the edge of the appliance door. It creates an airtight seal between the door and cabinet to prevent cold air from escaping, and warm air from entering the ref...Read morerigerator, to ensure that the temperature in the appliance remains constant. Over time, the door gasket can lose its elasticity or tear. In this case, you will likely notice frost build-up, increased noise, and inconsistent temperatures. Peel the faulty gasket off the refrigerator frame and remove any debris or residue on the surface. Carefully place the new seal along the edge of the door and press it firmly into place. Secure it with the appropriate fasteners and close the door to verify that there are no gaps between the door and cabinet.
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of p...Read morelastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This evaporator fan motor is 115V. If you notice that your freezer is noisy or is too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan motor. This package comes with the evaporator fan motor itself, as well as a wire harness. The evaporator fan motor is in the back of the freezer, so you will need to remove your freezer shelves and the ba...Read moreck panel before you can access it. The function of the evaporator fan motor is to circulate air over the coils. The coils convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Be sure to remove the power source from the freezer before you begin this repair.
This part could be found underneath a fridge, dryer, or freezer. The original foot may be cracked, broken, or perhaps missing altogether. If you notice the appliance is uneven to the floor or wobbling, it may indicate that the levelling foot needs to be replaced. You will need pliers and a block of wood to perform this task. There will be...Read more one adjustable foot found in the package. Lift the dryer and place the wood to keep it propped up. You may need to use the pliers to remove the old foot. Screw the new foot into place using your hand. Once the new leveling foot is in place, lift the appliance and remove the block. Test the machine out to ensure it is now sitting level.
This genuine OEM hinge mounting screw is designed for use in Frigidaire and Electrolux refrigerators, providing a secure and reliable way to fasten door hinges to the cabinet. Built with a durable hex washer head and standard threading, it helps restore proper door alignment and maintain a tight seal to prevent cold air loss. Ideal for re...Read moreplacing worn, stripped, or corroded hardware, this heavy-duty screw ensures long-lasting stability and dependable everyday performance.
This start device is essential for initiating the compressor in your refrigerator, ensuring efficient cooling performance. Built with high-quality components for dependable operation, it helps maintain consistent temperature control and energy efficiency.
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After getting wiring diagram off internet it was diagnosed as freezer stuck in defrost mode, temp alarm on, but fan running.
82 of 99 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from Navarre, FL
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Screw drivers
Turned gray knob on defrost timer (located bottom left back of freezer) past defrost position to verify compressor would run...it would not, but fan would run. Tested run capacitor...found borderline defective (weak, wrong value ohm meter kick). Just to be sure, removed interior shelves and interior rear and gasket to check heater at 20
... Read moreohms as OK and removed thermostat and verified contact closure after exposure in another freezer....re-installed, hooked heater back up and re-installed interior rear panel. Replaced defrost timer by unplugging 4-pin connector, then removed 2 screws that hold it to the bracket. Installed new one in reverse order. Then removed wire bail holding run capacitor to compressor plug assembly, removed run capacitor, plugged in new one. Turned on freezer......now making ice and holding cold temperature and cycling properly between freeze and defrost modes. Two problems made this repair a bit more difficult. This is the second time that defrost timer has failed...only got 3 years from last one.
I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and bot
... Read moreh worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop
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Ice and frost were forming in a frost free freezer
78 of 101 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Louise from Ocala, FL
Easy
1- 2 hours
The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the
... Read more door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.