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2150 PR (TYPE 6) Poulan Chainsaw - Overview

Diagrams for 2150 PR

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Fuel Line (25" Length) – Part Number: 530069247
$12.81
In Stock
Fuel Line (25" Length)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #530069247
This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged or brittle over time. Replacing a worn or damaged line can help prevent leaks and restore reliable starting and performance.
Engine Fuel Filter – Part Number: 530095646
$9.62
In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this essential component ensures clean fuel delivery, protecting the engine from potential damage caused by contaminants. Sold individually, the filter is built to meet original equipment standards for fit and function. Over time, the filter may become clogged, restricting fuel flow and making engine starts more difficult. For optimal performance, it should be replaced—not cleaned—at the first sign of blockage or wear.
Purge Line – Part Number: 530069216
$17.55
In Stock
Purge Line
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #530069216
This is the Genuine Craftsman replacement part. It is made out of Flexible Rubber and is Sold Individually. The purpose of the 530069216 Tank Purge Line is to return the excess fuel that is in the carburetor after the primer bulb has been pushed. The excess fuel is forced through the purge line back into the fuel tank. Over time the Tank Purge Line will become brittle and crack and will need to be replaced.
Primer Bulb – Part Number: 530071835
$17.55
In Stock
Fuel Line Fitting – Part Number: 530023877
$7.65
In Stock
Fuel Line Fitting
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #530023877
The Fuel Line Fitting is a plastic part which attaches two pieces of fuel line together. If broken due to damage/fatigue, there may be a leak and the part must be replaced. Installation is rated as "Easy". Refer to your make, model and diagram to ensure this part is correct for you.
Foam Air Filter – Part Number: 530037793
$6.95
In Stock
Foam Air Filter
Part #530037793
Fuel Cap – Part Number: 580940901
$10.95
In Stock
Fuel Cap
Part #580940901
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris from entering the fuel tank. If the fuel cap is stripped or missing the O-ring, it can cause a leak, and will need to be replaced. To replace the fuel cap simply screw the old one out and screw the new one in, ensuring you have a tight seal. This is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Kit - Bar Adjust – Part Number: 530069611
$12.05
In Stock
Kit - Bar Adjust
Part #530069611
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket set. This part comes directly from the manufacturer.
Nut – Part Number: 530015917
$6.72
In Stock
Nut
Part #530015917
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
Carburetor – Part Number: 545081885
$65.95
In Stock
Carburetor
Part #545081885
This is an Original Manufacturer Approved Carburetor Kit which includes a Metal Body Walbro WT89 Carburetor, Plastic Grommet and a Plastic Air Filter Housing. It is used on a variety of Poulan Gas Powered Chainsaws. The purpose of this part is to mix air and gas before the fuel mix goes to the engine. If the engine won\'t start and the tank is full of fresh fuel, test the carburetor by removing the air filter and pouring about a teaspoon of fuel into the carburetor. Pull the starter rope. If the engine starts and then quickly dies, the carburetor is likely the problem.
Chain Catcher – Part Number: 530029850
$9.62
In Stock
Chain Catcher
Part #530029850
This is a genuine manufacturer approved replacement part designed for use with chainsaws. This part is an important safety feature because it prevents the chainsaw chain from flying off the bar if it breaks or comes loose from its track. It is made out of metal and it is sold individually. Please note the screw used to secure it is sold separately.
Adjust Pin-Bar 36/41 – Part Number: 530015826
$7.65
In Stock
Adjust Pin-Bar 36/41
Part #530015826
This Bar Pin Adjuster is an OEM part used to adjust the tension on the bar, which loosens or tightens the chain. It attaches to the slot in the bar, and the chainsaw bar adjusting screw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver. Refer to your make, model and diagram to ensure this part is correct.

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Deterioration of fuel line system
101 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
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Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
55 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
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Fuel line size - Important
13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from ORION, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Be sure the fuel line is the exact same size (id and od) as the one you are replacing. I had purchased a Fuel line from my local dealer - and after a few hours I figured out that it was the wrong size! He simply cut some line from a spool he had. Didn't bother to look it up! The line from this site was perfect! The id is important because the line has to Compress to go through the hole.
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