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2035 (1998-09) Jonsered Chainsaw - Overview

Diagrams for 2035

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Fuel Line (25" Length) – Part Number: 530069247
$12.81
In Stock
Fuel Line (25" Length)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #530069247
This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged or brittle over time. Replacing a worn or damaged line can help prevent leaks and restore reliable starting and performance.
Engine Fuel Filter – Part Number: 530095646
$9.62
In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this essential component ensures clean fuel delivery, protecting the engine from potential damage caused by contaminants. Sold individually, the filter is built to meet original equipment standards for fit and function. Over time, the filter may become clogged, restricting fuel flow and making engine starts more difficult. For optimal performance, it should be replaced—not cleaned—at the first sign of blockage or wear.
Purge Line – Part Number: 530069216
$17.55
In Stock
Purge Line
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #530069216
This is the Genuine Craftsman replacement part. It is made out of Flexible Rubber and is Sold Individually. The purpose of the 530069216 Tank Purge Line is to return the excess fuel that is in the carburetor after the primer bulb has been pushed. The excess fuel is forced through the purge line back into the fuel tank. Over time the Tank Purge Line will become brittle and crack and will need to be replaced.
Primer Bulb – Part Number: 530071835
$17.55
In Stock
Foam Air Filter – Part Number: 530037793
$6.95
In Stock
Foam Air Filter
Part #530037793
Fuel Cap – Part Number: 580940901
$10.95
In Stock
Fuel Cap
Part #580940901
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris from entering the fuel tank. If the fuel cap is stripped or missing the O-ring, it can cause a leak, and will need to be replaced. To replace the fuel cap simply screw the old one out and screw the new one in, ensuring you have a tight seal. This is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Kit - Bar Adjust – Part Number: 530069611
$12.05
In Stock
Kit - Bar Adjust
Part #530069611
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket set. This part comes directly from the manufacturer.
Nut – Part Number: 530015917
$6.72
In Stock
Nut
Part #530015917
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
Walbro Gasket/Diaphragm Kit – Part Number: 530069844
$28.55
In Stock
Walbro Gasket/Diaphragm Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #530069844
This is an authentic OEM replacement kit for use with lawn and garden equipment. Each kit includes the carburetor, cylinder, crankcase, and muffler gaskets. The carburetor gasket seals the area between the carburetor and engine block to prevent the entry of contaminants into the carburetor. The crankcase gasket prevents oil from leaking out of the crankcase. The cylinder and muffler gaskets prevent the combustion and exhaust gases from escaping. If you are experiencing common problems such as leaking, loss of compression, and poor engine performance this indicates that your gaskets may be worn down or damaged and need replacement. Carefully remove the old gaskets and thoroughly clean the mating surfaces where the new gaskets will be installed to ensure a good seal. Install the new gaskets and ensure that they fit properly.
Spark Plug – Part Number: 503235111
$11.28
In Stock
Spark Plug
Part #503235111
Compatible with over 150 models of lawn equipment, this Spark Plug has been sourced directly from the original manufacturer. It is sold individually, made of metal and ceramic components, and is not part of a kit or assembly. The spark plug is used to ignite the air-fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber. You may need to replace the Spark Plug if your 1 cylinder engine won't start, or if your more-than-1 cylinder engine runs rough. Spark Plugs will wear over time and should be inspected regularly. Customers rate this repair as Easy.
Chain Catcher – Part Number: 530029850
$9.62
In Stock
Chain Catcher
Part #530029850
This is a genuine manufacturer approved replacement part designed for use with chainsaws. This part is an important safety feature because it prevents the chainsaw chain from flying off the bar if it breaks or comes loose from its track. It is made out of metal and it is sold individually. Please note the screw used to secure it is sold separately.
Adjust Pin-Bar 36/41 – Part Number: 530015826
$7.65
In Stock
Adjust Pin-Bar 36/41
Part #530015826
This Bar Pin Adjuster is an OEM part used to adjust the tension on the bar, which loosens or tightens the chain. It attaches to the slot in the bar, and the chainsaw bar adjusting screw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver. Refer to your make, model and diagram to ensure this part is correct.

Exact Part matches for your search term

Bearing – Part Number: 2035
No Longer Available
Bearing
This part number matches the current model number 2035
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Pulley Guard – Part Number: 2035
No Longer Available
Pulley Guard
This part number matches the current model number 2035
Part #2035

Common Symptoms of the 2035

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Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
55 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
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installing fuel through fuel tank wall
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from BROCKTON, MA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t hat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
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Split fuel line driving brother-in-law to frustration
1 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from UNICOI, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Seven screw, three case cover, two air cleaner, two carb mounting, pulled carb, drained tank, pulled old fuel line, treaded new one in, wire to thread, thread to angle cut fuel line. Reassemble, test, sharpen chain, retest…not exactly a doityourselfer, graduate degree in mechanical/industrial engineering and former medium/heavy mechanica l. Get fuel line on carb prior to reassembly, line may need some stretching with a tapered punch.
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