The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to the inner wiring of your appliance. Without this connection your burner element would not get the electrical current it needs to heat up. W...Read morehen your element will not heat at all, or if it is not heating properly it is likely an issue with the terminal block. You need to remove the element to replace this part. While you have the element out, inspect the element and the terminal for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. If you notice any damage to the element or the terminals we recommend you replace this part as well. This kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped high-temperature wire leads, two ceramic wire nuts, two heat-shrinking insulators, and a mounting screw. Before you begin this repair, make sure you have unplugged your appliance.
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts and screws in order to hold items firmly together. This piece is a fastener that attaches one item to another. This part has several advantage...Read mores, the main one being that it is universal and can be used with most pieces and appliances in your home. This hex nut is an original equipment manufacturer part, meaning it is directly sourced from the manufacturer.
This is a high quality replacement hardware that is specially manufactured for use on Toro lawn and garden equipment. Two of these screws are generally used to secure the belt guide to the mower deck. Please note this durable metal hex head taptite screw is included per order.
This is a five-loop broil element for an oven, range, or stove. It is approximately 11-3/4 inches wide and 18-5/8 inches long with approximately 11-3/4 inches between terminal connections. It features a.25-inch male terminal push-in connection for easy replacement and a hanger style mount. It is 3000/2500 watts and 240/208 volts. This bro...Read moreil element is located on the inner upper wall of your oven. Be sure your element wires do not fall through the wall of your oven when you uninstall the existing part. The wires are short and will make your repair more difficult because they are difficult to retrieve.
This is an authentic replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with riding lawnmowers from Toro and Lawn Boy. The shoulder screw is commonly used to secure the side fenders to the mower's frame assembly. This bolt is sold as an individual replacement part.
This ignition key is used in lawn equipment to start and stop its engine. Inserting the key into the ignition switch activates the starter motor. Thus, it is a safety device which prevents accidental or unauthorized use of the equipment. A broken key might be loose or hard to turn. In some cases, it might have completely fallen out of the...Read more switch. Without the ignition key, it will be difficult or impossible to start the engine. Locate your ignition key by reading your user manual. To remove a stuck ignition key, you may need to use a small amount of lubricant on it. While turning the key in the ignition switch, gently wriggle it back and forth. There may also be a release button that you could press, depending on your model type. This replacement part is an OEM product and is sold per unit.
This screw is an authentic OEM sourced hardware, it is not an aftermarket imitation. It is commonly utilized on Toro snow throwers. It is a standard hardware which has multiple uses depending on your unit, please make sure to check appropriate diagrams for correct location and use of this hardware. One hex head screw is included per order.
This is a genuine OEM sourced hardware that is specifically made for use with Toro lawn and garden equipment. It is a standard hardware which may have multiple applications depending on the model of your unit. Please make sure to refer to the appropriate diagrams for the correct location and application of this part. Keep in mind this hig...Read moreh-quality flange nut is made of durable metal and is sold individually. Note, you will need a wrench to secure or remove it.
This carriage screw is a genuine manufacturer sourced replacement part. It is specially designed for use with Toro snowblowers. This screw is generally used to secure the scraper blade. The square area under the head is designed to fit into a square hole in the workpiece. It is this square hole that restrains the screw and keeps it from t...Read moreurning when the nut is tightened. Please note, this screw is made out of metal and it is sold individually.
The flat washer is an OEM replacement part that provides a wide surface area to distribute the load of a bolt or a screw when it is installed. This protects the part being fastened from getting damaged or deformed and provides a more secure fit for the bolt/screw. This flat washer is made of steel and has a diameter of 0.375 inches and a ...Read morethickness of approximately 0.063 inches. To replace the flat washer, first unthread the bolt/screw before using a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry it off. Clean the area, place the new flat washer in position, and thread the bolt/screw back on. Sold individually.
The lock washer goes next to the flat washer and is made of metal. It is available as an individual replacement part. This genuine item is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer for use with snowblowers made by Toro and Lawn Boy. A wrench might be helpful during the installation of this part. This item may become broken and will need to be replaced.
The Nut-Flange, Ni, simply known as a Flange Nut, is a silver metal individually sold part which can be applied with a wrench or socket and torque wrench. Simply torque the part to the manufacturer specifications. It is used to secure the idler arm assembly to the frame, and will need to be replaced if damaged. You can tell if it is brok...Read moreen if there are signs of visible damage, or the part won't tighten all the way due to damaged threads.
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Phillip from Pekin, IL
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
... Read moreplaced the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
7 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
JOAN from Pickford, MI
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the
... Read more Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Ronald from Fresno, CA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca
... Read moreted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.