This is a replacement screw, also known as a shear pin that is used in several pieces of outdoor power equipment. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches in length. It is a hex head screw and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This Ni Nut-Lock, or Nylock Nut, is a Silver 1/4 x 20 metal nut. Sold individually, it can be adjusted using a wrench or socket and torque wrench to the manufacturer specfications, and is used to secure the sheer pin in place, on the impeller assembly. These nuts are a one-time use part due to their locking mechanism. You'll know the nut...Read more has broken when it appears to have damaged threads or rounded off edges.
Customers found this to be an easy repair.
This genuine OEM oven door gasket is designed to create a tight, heat-resistant seal between the oven door and the cooking cavity. By preventing heat from escaping, it helps maintain consistent cooking temperatures and supports efficient oven operation. Replacing a worn, torn, or damaged gasket can resolve issues such as heat loss, uneven...Read more cooking, or longer preheat times, restoring proper performance with a simple, direct-fit installation.
This is an authentic OEM sourced replacement part, it is specially made for use with lawn and garden equipment. It is a standard hardware which has multiple applications depending on your model, please refer to appropriate diagrams for correct location and use of this item. Please note this high-quality hex head screw is sold individually.
This OEM Carburetor Bowl Gasket attaches between the carburetor bowl and carburetor in order to seal the parts together. This model is rubber, black, and comes individually sold. Installation is rated as "Easy" by customers, and will require pliers and a socket set. If the part becomes broken due to wear/damage then there may be a fuel le...Read moreak, and the part will need to be replaced. Refer to your make, model and diagrams to ensure you've chosen the correct part.
The Ni Lock Nut (Nylock Nut) is a Silver, 5/16x18, individually sold metal nut. It can be adjusted and replaced using a wrench or socket and torque wrench to the manufacturer specfications, and is used to secure the sheer pin in place on the augur. These nuts are a one time use part due to their locking mechanism. You'll know the nut has...Read more broken because the augur will not spin, and this is when the part should be replaced.
Customers found this to be an easy repair.
This OEM-sourced washer in your walk-behind lawnmower provides space and protects the rear wheel from rubbing against the pivot arm assembly, ensuring smooth wheel rotation. A damaged washer may appear worn or cracked, causing the rear wheel to feel misaligned or wobble excessively. If not replaced, it can lead to increased wear and expen...Read moresive repairs. To remove the existing washer, prop up the wheel with a two by four, use a wrench to remove the bolt securing the wheel, slide out the wheel, and then remove the bolt on the rear adjuster to take off the washer. Please note that this washer is sold individually, so make sure to check the quantity needed for your machine before making your purchase.
This is an authentic manufacturer sourced replacement part designed for use with Toro walk-behind lawn mowers. This part helps to secure the mower wheel, allowing it to rotate freely. It is made out of metal and it is sold individually. To replace this part you would need a wrench and pliers.
This is an authentic Toro replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with walk-behind lawnmowers. The metal screw is used to secure the mower's blade to the drive shaft. This item may require a hex socket wrench to install and the bolt is sold individually.
The Fuel Line Clamp is a metal, individually sold part which clamps onto the fuel line, securing it to a port and preventing leaks. Installation is rated as "Easy" by customers and will require pliers and a screwdriver. If broken due to wear/fatigue/damage, there may be a fuel leak and the part should be replaced. Refer to your make, model and diagrams to ensure this is the correct part.
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The gasket needed to be replaced in top oven, it was brittle and broken.
19 of 28 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
JoAnn from Auburn, WA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove enti
... Read morere oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.
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Oven Gasket Worn and Brittle
7 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Karen from Yakima, WA
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.
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Gasket around rim of oven broke while cleaning
7 of 10 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Dorothy from Santa Rosa, CA
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and
... Read moreinside light would at least go off and stay off.