The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to the inner wiring of your appliance. Without this connection your burner element would not get the electrical current it needs to heat up. W...Read morehen your element will not heat at all, or if it is not heating properly it is likely an issue with the terminal block. You need to remove the element to replace this part. While you have the element out, inspect the element and the terminal for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. If you notice any damage to the element or the terminals we recommend you replace this part as well. This kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped high-temperature wire leads, two ceramic wire nuts, two heat-shrinking insulators, and a mounting screw. Before you begin this repair, make sure you have unplugged your appliance.
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts and screws in order to hold items firmly together. This piece is a fastener that attaches one item to another. This part has several advantage...Read mores, the main one being that it is universal and can be used with most pieces and appliances in your home. This hex nut is an original equipment manufacturer part, meaning it is directly sourced from the manufacturer.
Made of durable rubber and plastic components, this Fuel Valve and Bushing are designed for use in over 150 models of generators and pressure washers. This item is sold as a kit, including the valve and the rubber cap. Its primary purpose is to deliver fuel from the tank to the carburetor.
This part is found on the underside of the fuel...Read more tank and should be replaced when it is worn or damaged. When malfunctioning, it may cause your engine to be starved of fuel and run rough or not at all. You will need a screwdriver and pliers to complete this repair.
Customers rate this repair as Easy.
This OEM replacement fuel gauge cap is designed for use in generators. It comes in a cylindrical shape and has a built-in window to easily view the fuel levels without pulling out the entire cap. It is approximately 5.25 inches in length, while the head has a diameter of 3 inches. The purpose of the cap is to cover and protect the fuel ga...Read moreuge, which indicates the levels of gas available in the tank. It prevents dirt and debris from entering the gauge area and prevents fuel from leaking out. A faulty cap will allow contaminants to enter the gauge, and cause fuel to leak, leading to inaccurate fuel readings and safety risks. Twist the cap to remove it and clean the surrounding area thoroughly. Place the new gauge cap in position and ensure that it is locked in place.
This is an original replacement part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The screw is commonly found in yard equipment from Craftsman, such as lawn tractors, snow blowers, and edgers. This part is made of metal, and may be found in various locations in the machine, depending on model. Please be aware that there are different screws...Read more used in the machine. Refer to the parts diagram to be sure of ordering the correct part. You will require a wrench when replacing this item. The screw is sold as an individual replacement part.
This steering gear is an original part from Craftsman for lawn tractors. This piece is part of the tractors steering mechanism. This steering gear maneuvers the steering sector gear to move the lawn tractor wheels right or left. You will need a socket set to replace this part. This steering gear is made of metal and sold individually.
This manufacturer-approved Oil Seal, SD 35x62x8, is a Black, rubber, individually sold part with a 2 inch outer diameter. It can be installed with a wrench and screwdriver, and is rated as Easy to install by users.
When installing, the housing must be clean and dry so use something that makes contact around the entire seal, such as a la...Read morerge socket or pipe, and tap into place evenly. This part attaches inside the crankcase around the crankshaft to provide a tight seal. If broken due to fatigue or drying out and cracking, there will be oil leaking from it, that you will be able to visually observe. If this happens, the part must be replaced. Refer to your owners manual or model number to ensure you are selecting the correct part. Note: this part may require a Seal Puller for maintenance.
This is an authentic OEM part for Craftsman lawn and garden equipment. This bushing has an internal diameter of 0.380", is made of durable black plastic, is not part of an assembly or kit, and is sold individually. The purpose of this bushing is to ensure there is a tight fit between parts.
A common sign this part needs to be replaced i...Read mores if you notice any parts loosely connected or detached. This part will become worn through regular use of the machine. It is located in various areas, depending on your model. Refer to your owner's manual for the exact location. You will need a wrench and pliers to complete this repair.
Customers rate this repair as Medium difficulty.
This item is a genuine OEM replacement part that is intended to be used with snowthrowers and lawnmowers from Ryobi, MTD, Yard Machines, Troy-Bilt, Bolens, and Yard-Man. The metal hex head screw is used with different types of machines and the application of the screw can vary based on the model of the equipment. This screw is sold as an individual replacement part.
This OEM Push Rod is a silver, metal part, approximately 5.5 inches long. It can be installed using a wrench or sockets. A Spark Plug Gap Tool may also be needed for maintenance. The installation of this partis rated as Medium difficulty by customers.
It attaches inside the cylinder head, and is installed by tightening the rocker nut on...Read more top to manufacturer specs. This part opens and closes the intake and exhaust valves, and if broken there will be poor engine performance as well as an internal knocking or tapping sound from the engine.
If damaged, likely due to fatigue or stress, it must be replaced. Refer to your owners manual or model number to ensure you are slecting the correct part.
This genuine oil seal is a brown, rubber part, measuring 8 x 14 x 5mm. This part can be installed using a screwdriver, wrench set, pliers, and pick, and a seal puller may also be required for maintenance. This repair is rated as "Easy" to install by customers.
It attaches to the governer shaft to provide a tight seal, and if broken due ...Read moreto general wear or drying out, there will be visible oil coming out around the shaft. If damaged or missing, it should be replaced. Check your owners manual for the correct part number.
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Phillip from Pekin, IL
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
... Read moreplaced the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
7 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
JOAN from Pickford, MI
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the
... Read more Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Ronald from Fresno, CA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca
... Read moreted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.