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1259L26
1259L26 Whirlpool Range - Overview
Sections of the 1259L26
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Surface Burner Element Switch, Large Burner
PartSelect #: PS11740783
Manufacturer #: WP3149400
This surface burner element switch is for an 8-inch surface burner on an oven, stove, or range. The element switch controls the heat of the surface burner. Disconnect power to your range before comple...
$95.44
In Stock
Round Carborundum Oven Igniter
PartSelect #: PS360921
Manufacturer #: 4342528
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attr...
$51.37
In Stock
Spark Module
PartSelect #: PS369615
Manufacturer #: 4372836
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
No Longer Available
Round Chrome Drip Pan
PartSelect #: PS359781
Manufacturer #: 4330786
This single round chrome drip pan is 7-7/16 inches in diameter. Its center hole has a diameter of three and a half inches wide. Use this chrome drip pan for your Whirlpool brand gas range or cooktop.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for 1259L26
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Common Symptoms of the 1259L26
[Viewing 6 of 6]Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will not program
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The lower burner would not ignite.
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa
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s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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Parts Used:
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Mark from Rego Park, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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the element did not turn compleatly off, the on light stayed on.
removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. re
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moved each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well
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Parts Used:
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chaz from fairplay, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Burner would go high without warning
We felt the only possible problem could be the switch assembly. I removed the switch panel, removed the wires from the old switch, one at a time, removed the old switch assembly and installed the new switch assembly. The extended stem did have to be snapped off (per your instructions) and that too was a very simple task.
Parts Used:
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John from Clinton, CT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
53 of 56 people
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