This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged or brittle over time. Replacing a worn or damaged line can help prevent leaks and restore reliable starting and performance.
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this essential component ensures clean fuel delivery, protecting the engine from potential damage caused by contaminants. Sold individually, the filt...Read moreer is built to meet original equipment standards for fit and function. Over time, the filter may become clogged, restricting fuel flow and making engine starts more difficult. For optimal performance, it should be replaced—not cleaned—at the first sign of blockage or wear.
The Fuel Cap with retainer, often simply known just as the fuel cap, keeps fuel from splashing out of your tank and debris from entering it. Black in color, it is sold individually and made of plastic.
Because of everyday fatigue and wear, the cap can become damaged over time and must be replaced. You will know if it is time to replace ...Read moreyour fuel cap if you notice visible damage or experience fuel leaking from it. You can make this repair by hand, just attach the cap directly back onto the fuel tank.
Most of our customers found this repair very easy.
This is an authentic OEM replacement kit for use with lawn and garden equipment. Each kit includes the carburetor, cylinder, crankcase, and muffler gaskets. The carburetor gasket seals the area between the carburetor and engine block to prevent the entry of contaminants into the carburetor. The crankcase gasket prevents oil from leaking o...Read moreut of the crankcase. The cylinder and muffler gaskets prevent the combustion and exhaust gases from escaping. If you are experiencing common problems such as leaking, loss of compression, and poor engine performance this indicates that your gaskets may be worn down or damaged and need replacement. Carefully remove the old gaskets and thoroughly clean the mating surfaces where the new gaskets will be installed to ensure a good seal. Install the new gaskets and ensure that they fit properly.
The Starter Spring is a metal spring used to restract the rope after you pull it to start the engine. Installation of this OEM part is rated as "Medium" difficulty and requires a screwdriver, nutdriver, and torx bit. The part is installed inside the recoil housing. If broken, the rope will not retract and the part must be replaced.
The chainsaw starter rope is a three-foot-long white rope that is approved by the original equipment manufacturer, and which wraps around the recoil pulley and is pulled to start the engine. Installation is rated as "Easy" by customers and requires a screw driver, pliers, and torx screwdriver. If the rope breaks it should be replaced. Ref...Read moreer to your make, model and diagram to ensure this rope is right for your machine.
This is a standard hardware which has multiple applications based on your tool. It is sourced from original equipment manufacturer for use with a variety of power equipment. Please refer to diagrams for proper application. This screw is made out of metal and it is sold individually. Requires a hex key or an allen wrench to install or remove it.
This metering diaphragm is an original part for use in edgers, blowers, trimmers, and chainsaws made by Poulan, Paramount, Weed Eater, Husqvarna, and Jonsered. It fits between the metering diaphragm gasket and the metering diaphragm cover. It is made of a thin material and will need to be replaced if it breaks. A screwdriver may be needed when replacing this part and keep in mind that it is sold individually.
This replacement screw is a high quality hardware that is designed for use with Paramount, Poulan and Weed Eater power equipment. It has multiple applications depending on your equipment, please make sure to check appropriate diagrams for correct location and use of this item. One durable hex socket head screw is included per order.
Having trouble with your lawn mower? We're here to help you fix it with our Craftsman Zone Control Cable Kit. This part is crucial in managing your mower?s engine. Each time you let go of the handle, it comes into play, halting the engine to maintain safety and control. We all want our garden tools to last, so this Cable Kit is designed...Read more with durability in mind to keep your lawn mower performing like new for longer. The installation process is simple and can be handled easily, but we advise always wearing work gloves to protect your hands during repair. You can rest assured that this part is crafted to provide dependable, high-quality performance synonymous with the Craftsman brand. Your mower will be back up and running in no time, ready to make your lawn look great again. However, please do check the compatibility of this part with your specific mower model to ensure it will work just right for you.
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Fuel line deterioration and carb overhaul
8 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Edward from FREDERICKSBRG, VA
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
The machine was offered for free on FB marketplace. The person tried a rebuild of the carb, but could not figure out how to connect the fuel line, which feeds from the tank above the carb. I couldn’t either, so I went to a local parts dealer, who could not find a diameter the same size (it’s tiny). I assumed there may have been a fitting
... Read morein the tank, but if so, it was absent. The only parts that were found in the tank: a large filter in a 3/4”piece of larger tubing and this tiny fuel line was inserted into the other end. The resulting arrangement was long enough to reach the hole in the tank.Since the machine looked spectacularly clean, I used these parts to make it run.
1. Using diagonal cutters, I cut a very sharply angled end on the small line.
2. I generously lubricated the new line and the hole in the tank. I then took angled end of the new line and inserted it into the hole. Using a screwing type motion , I slowly worked it into the tank, using generous amounts of lubricant, until the line was far enough into the tank to grab from the fill hole with needle nose pliers. I then pulled and twisted until the line came out of the top of the tank.
3. I cut the angled end square at this point. I then inserted the filter into the larger tubing the cut about an inch longer than the filter Barb.I then lubed the larger line and the smaller line and pulled the line back into the tank from the bottom until the filter laid flat on the bottom of the tank.
4. At this point, I cut the end of the small line so that about an inch protruded from the bottom of the tank. I then re-lubed that line and inserted into a well lubricated length of larger line of sufficient length to reach the inlet on the carb.
About the carb: the donor of the machine had apparently attempted a rebuild. While it was very clean, he assembled it incorrectly. The metering diaphragm was pinched and he left off two of the four screws which held it together. I disassembled it, and using the correct parts assembled in the correct order, (there are parts for multiple applications included in the kit), mounted it back to the machine, and after about six or eight pulls, it roared to life. I did not get into the jets etc, because they seemed to work. This Walbro carb only has one inlet and no purge bulb, and after adjusting the carb it starts on the third pull every time using the choke as it was designed to.
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t
... Read morehat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
Split fuel line driving brother-in-law to frustration
1 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Howard from UNICOI, TN
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers
Seven screw, three case cover, two air cleaner, two carb mounting, pulled carb, drained tank, pulled old fuel line, treaded new one in, wire to thread, thread to angle cut fuel line. Reassemble, test, sharpen chain, retest…not exactly a doityourselfer, graduate degree in mechanical/industrial engineering and former medium/heavy mechanica
... Read morel. Get fuel line on carb prior to reassembly, line may need some stretching with a tapered punch.