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114344312 Kenmore Washer - Overview

Diagrams for 114344312

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Inlet Hose - 5 FT – Part Number: WP89503
$19.30
In Stock
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP89503
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: 35-2374N
$189.70
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #35-2374N
This valve has two ports for water to enter. It also comes with a metallic hose clamp.
Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner Tablets – 6 Count – Part Number: W10501250
$28.42
In Stock
Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner Tablets – 6 Count
Part #W10501250
This Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner deep cleans to help remove the odor-causing residues and grime that daily loads leave behind. The time-release tablets are EPA Safer Choice certified, septic-safe and designed to clean inside all machines, including HE (High Efficiency). Use monthly or every 30 cycles for a consistently clean machine.
SCREW – Part Number: 414004-35
No Longer Available
SCREW
Part #414004-35
SCREW – Part Number: 74002481
$11.77
Special Order
SCREW
Part #74002481
CLEANER – Part Number: W10549845
$19.30
In Stock
Burner Tip – Part Number: 00097664
No Longer Available
Burner Tip
Part #00097664
FLAT WASHER – Part Number: Y042570
No Longer Available
FLAT WASHER
Part #Y042570
Wire Connector (4 Req) – Part Number: 103595
No Longer Available
Wire Connector (4 Req)
Part #103595
NUT – Part Number: 044779
No Longer Available
NUT
Part #044779
No longer available – Part Number: 097982
No Longer Available
No longer available
Part #097982

Common Symptoms of the 114344312

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Fill water would not reliably shut off.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GARD from FAIRFAX STATION, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Open the top of the washing machine by using a putty knife to release the latches at the right and left side. Prop up the top so it doesn't fall while working.
Remove the inlet hoses and put in bucket to catch water.
Remove the two screws that hold the inlet valve in place.
Remove the wires from the inlet valve. (One of t he spade connectors one wire broke and I had to replace it.) I used needle nose pliers to pull the spade connectors off.
Remove the outlet hose.
Throw out old valve assembly.
Attach hose to new valve assembly. (My old valve assy outlet was slightly smaller in diameter than the new valve, but I was able to get the outlet hose to stretch enough to fit--couldn't use old spring clamp though, but new valve came with a hose clamp--worked fine.)
Attach wires same way as they cam off old valve.
Position and use the two screws to screw assy back into back of washing machine. (The screws had to tap the holes on the valve, so start out a little hard.)
Reattach the inlet hoses and check for leaks.
I also ran both the hot and cold in a cycle and the reraised the top to check for any leaks internal to the machine.
Pus the top back down to engage its fastening clips.
Job done.
My washing machine is 23 years old.
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No hot water was making it into the laundry cycle.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neil from Ann Arbor, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then un screwed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".
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No hot water on wash or rinse cycles
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Buffalo Grove, IL
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I read some stuff on the internet where folks with the same problem replaced the water inlet valve to repair this same problem. So I did the same. However, after I installed the new water inlet valve, the problem was still there. It was at that point I decided not to guess at the what issue was and instead test the components in the wa sher. Yes, I am a lazy dumb ass. There are many of us out there. I decided to use a continuity tester to test all components in the hot water fill circuit and determined that the water temperature switch was bad. So I ordered a new switch from Parts Select (they rock - it showed up next day) replaced the water temperature control switch and...walla. fixed!!! Only took about 30 minutes to replace. Lesson learned: Don't be a dumb ass and guess. Test.
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