This splutch cam kit is a genuine replacement assembly designed for select Whirlpool, Maytag, and affiliated brand washing machines. It plays a critical role in the wash and spin cycles by engaging the drive motor to rotate the washer basket. The kit includes the clutch assembly, cam ring, spring, basket drive gear, pulley, and mounting n...Read moreut. Replacing this component can resolve issues such as noisy operation, slow or failed spinning, poor agitation, and excessive moisture in clothes after a cycle. In some cases, a burning smell may also indicate a failing clutch. Installation requires basic tools and should be performed with the appliance disconnected from power. Compatibility should be confirmed using your washer’s model number.
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint...Read more is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
This part is the replacement lid latch or latch assembly for your top-load washer. The lid latch holds your washer door closed, and allows the washer to run its cycle. If the lid latch is damaged, your washer door may not close properly and you may not be able to run your washer. The latch is found under the lid and can be screwed out and...Read more replaced. You will need a Phillips-head screwdriver for this repair. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part from the manufacturer.
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be care...Read moreful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner includes three slow-dissolving tablets that help remove odor-causing residue from inside the washer. Suitable for all washer brands, including high-efficiency (HE) machines, the formula is also septic-safe. Place one tablet directly in the empty wash basket and run the Clean Washer cycle, or use a normal cycle with hot water. Use monthly or every 30 wash cycles for best results.
If your washer isn’t draining properly or making strange noises, this drain pump could be the fix. It’s the part that helps push water out of the tub during the cycle, keeping everything running smoothly. Made to fit select top-load models from Whirlpool and other brands, it’s a reliable replacement if your machine is leaking or not spinn...Read moreing out water. Just make sure it matches your model before ordering, and unplug your washer before installing.
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to give a fresh new look to any handles or areas that have discoloring due to wear. Make sure to clean the area before you begin and wear a pr...Read moreotective mask for safety. Give the can a good shake and spray a few inches away from the surface. Apply the paint until the area is fully covered as desired. Wait until the paint has dried before using the appliance.
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Noise, grinding sounds. Wash tub stopped turning but motor and cycles kept functioning. Process of elimination, must be the clutch assembly.
71 of 107 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.
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washer not agitating
22 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from EAST AMHERST, NY
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Socket set
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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Making loud noises.
20 of 29 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Roy from BROOKLYN, NY
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it. Thank you