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11020412991 Kenmore Washer - Overview

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Direct Drive Motor Coupling – Part Number: 285753A
$21.45
In Stock
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
★★★★★
★★★★★
(169)
Part #285753A
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump – Part Number: WP3363394
$43.18
In Stock
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
★★★★★
★★★★★
(115)
Part #WP3363394
The direct drive drain pump (Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Pump, Drain Pump, Washer Drain Pump, Water Pump) removes water from the washer during the drain cycle without the use of a belt. The pump is supposed to drain the water from the washer; if the water isn’t draining or if there is a leak, you may have a problem with your pump. You must replace this part if there is a blockage or clog. Although the symptoms may point to a malfunctioning drain pump, there could actually be a problem with one of the connecting hoses. This pump connected directly to the motor, and comes in white plastic. This replacement part features 1 direct drive water pump with 2 ports for water to pass through: a large one and a smaller one.
Suspension Spring – Part Number: WP63907
$9.62
In Stock
Suspension Spring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #WP63907
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could cause the load to be off-balance which can lead to excessive shaking, moving, noise, and leaks. For this repair, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, a putty knife, a flat blade screwdriver, and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power supply, fill hoses, and drain hose to give you safe and easy access (have a container nearby for water left in drain hose). This item is sold individually, which is important as you may need to repair multiple springs in your appliance, which carries three suspension springs. As an inexpensive part, we recommend purchasing several at a time, as they can be very useful to have on-hand.
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket – Part Number: 285805
$32.63
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(145)
Part #285805
The water inlet valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm, or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. This part could have either a blue or green-colored valve body. There are two ports for water to enter and this valve is compatible with a half-inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads. You may have a faulty valve if your washer is leaking, has no hot or cold water, will not stop filling with water, will not fill with water, fills and drains at the same time, or is noisy. To confirm that the valve is faulty, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then the inlet valve is defective.
Washer Clutch Assembly – Part Number: 285785
$38.96
In Stock
Washer Clutch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(92)
Part #285785
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.
Lid Switch Assembly – Part Number: WP3949238
$45.29
In Stock
Lid Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(99)
Part #WP3949238
This part comes with a three-wire lead. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
Agitator Bolt – Part Number: WP358237
$6.40
In Stock
Agitator Bolt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WP358237
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
Washer Tub Spring – Part Number: WPW10250667
$6.40
In Stock
Washer Tub Spring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(21)
Part #WPW10250667
This tub spring is also known as suspension spring, balance spring, or counterweight spring. It is sold individually. The function of the part is to counterbalance the weight of the motor on the front of the front-load washer so the washer tub sits straight and even during the spin cycle. You may need to replace the spring if tub is sitting tilted forward. A broken spring will result in the tub being off-balance during the spin cycle which can cause further damage to washer parts. It is recommended to check all suspension springs as they often wear at the same rate. Tools needed for repair are a Phillips screw driver, flat blade screw driver, and a pair of pliers.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Tub Wear Pads - Package of 3 – Part Number: 285744
$13.92
In Stock
Tub Wear Pads - Package of 3
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #285744
This package of pads contains three tub wear pads.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
Centerpost Gasket – Part Number: W10814296
$7.47
In Stock
Centerpost Gasket
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #W10814296
This part may also be referred to as a main outer tub seal. This part prevents leaking from the bottom of the tub. The gasket is approximately 2 inches in diameter to the outer edge, black in color, and made of plastic material. To perform this repair, you will need to disconnect the power, drain hose, and the inlet hose. You will need to remove the entire outside cabinet to have access to the tub assembly. The tub will need to be removed entirely. This is a genuine part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Common Symptoms of the 11020412991

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No movement from Basket & agitator
1124 of 1228 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Wayne, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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Washer would not run, lid switch broken
763 of 801 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nicola from Centreville, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Repair was easy. Removed two side panels on the control plate. Removed two phillips screws that hold the control panel to the body of the washer. Disconnected the electic connection to the wires leading to the lid switch. Three sided of the lower cover lift over and removed from the washer frame. Access to the lid switch and wire ret ainers was easy. Removed two screws holding the remaining parts of the switch and replaced with new. Re-routed the wires through the retainers. Set the sides back on making sure the set all the way back in the frame and fit properly into the plastic strips on the back of the washer. Reconnected wires, screws and end caps.
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spin cycle did not engage
500 of 540 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from SLC, UT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
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