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1093B1A Roper Wall Oven - Overview

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Dryer Heating Element – Part Number: WP4391960
$33.69
In Stock
Dryer Heating Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(60)
Part #WP4391960
This element carries 5200W and 240V. Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.
Heating Element Connection Wire Kit – Part Number: 279457
$9.62
In Stock
Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #279457
This kit is used for electric clothes dryers, and it comes with a yellow wire nut.
Range Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
$7.47
In Stock
Range Hex Nut
Part #WP112432
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts and screws in order to hold items firmly together. This piece is a fastener that attaches one item to another. This part has several advantages, the main one being that it is universal and can be used with most pieces and appliances in your home. This hex nut is an original equipment manufacturer part, meaning it is directly sourced from the manufacturer.
Bearing and Seal Kit – Part Number: 279264
$67.82
In Stock
Bearing and Seal Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #279264
This front bearing and seal kit comes with the adhesive.
TRIM, GLASS (BOTTOM) – Part Number: 313321
No Longer Available
TRIM, GLASS (BOTTOM)
Part #313321
HARNS-WIRE – Part Number: 279524
No Longer Available
HARNS-WIRE
Part #279524
Door Lining (Upper Oven) – Part Number: 299528
No Longer Available
xOven Lamp Holder – Part Number: 87883
No Longer Available
xOven Lamp Holder
Part #87883
Washer – Part Number: 103208
No Longer Available
Washer
Part #103208
Roller – Part Number: 104734
No Longer Available
Roller
Part #104734
Broiler Pan Grid – Part Number: 291392
No Longer Available
Broiler Pan Grid
Part #291392
Washer – Part Number: 97749
No Longer Available
Washer
Part #97749

Common Symptoms of the 1093B1A

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open
289 of 323 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from Morristown, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.
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Dryer was not heating
100 of 109 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Fort Collins, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This is the second heating element I have replaced in this dryer which I bought new in 1977. That's right it is 32 years old and still works great!

The replacement process is simple:
One: pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work in the back.
Two: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of t he dryer.
Three: Remove the five - 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws that hold the back cover in place and set the cover to the side.
Four: Go to the front of the dryer and remove the lint filter and the two slot head screws that hold the lint filter opening to the internal frame.
Five: Pop the top of the dryer open and remove the one 5/16" hex head screw that holds the top of the heating element strap to the frame.
Six: Go to the back of the dryer and remove the two leads from the thermostat that is mounted to the heating element casing. CAUTION: Be careful to note the position of the wires and be certain that you reattach the correct wire to the correct lead.
Seven: Lift the heating element case up about 1/2" to disengage the hooks at the bottom that hold it in place.Then pull the bottom of the heating toward you slightly while sliding it down. This will allow you to remove the heating element and casing.
Eight: Remove the heating element from the casing and insert the replacement heating element.

Reverse the above process to reassemble.
This entire process only takes about 20 minutes.

An additional note: Be certain that you pay careful attention to the positioning of the strap that holds the top of the heating element case to the dryer frame. If you install it incorrectly, the heating element case can fall away from the back of the drum assembly.
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Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.
39 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rod from Galveston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then rep lace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou
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