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1079 - Overview

Models starting with 1079

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$147.53
In Stock
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$123.58
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Light Cover – Part Number: WB36X192
$26.39
In Stock
Light Cover
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB36X192
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. Disconnect power to your appliance before this repair. It is recommended to check the light bulb while the lens cover is removed in case it needs to be replaced. Be sure to remove all broken glass, if applicable, before installing new lens. This part is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer, and is sold individually.
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8" – Part Number: WB30T10045
$133.95
In Stock
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WB30T10045
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops heating. To complete this repair you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat blade screwdriver. To access the element, open the oven door and unscrew the two screws under the lip of the cooktop.
Bottom Trim - White – Part Number: WB07K10250
$31.86
In Stock
Bottom Trim - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WB07K10250
Screws not included.
6" Heating Element – Part Number: WB30X44826
$129.32
In Stock
6" Heating Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WB30X44826
Introducing GE's 6 Inch Heating Element, the ultimate solution for your appliance repair needs. Authentic and guaranteed for quality, this radiant surface element is designed to be the perfect replacement part for your setup. Representing GE's commitment towards innovation and maintaining consistent efficiency, it might be just the piece you need to keep your appliance working optimally. Made durable, its intelligent design ensures longevity enabling long-term usage. Experience unparalleled reliability with this authentic GE product meant to stand the test of time. Keep your appliance performing its best with this genuine GE part.
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15X10048
$73.04
In Stock
Door Handle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB15X10048
Handle only. Screws not included.
Washer - 12 Pack – Part Number: WB1X119D
$24.09
Special Order
Washer - 12 Pack
Part #WB1X119D
Stepped Washer – Part Number: 614426
$6.55
In Stock
Stepped Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #614426
The Stepped Washer is used to secure the wheels onto the shaft of a push mower. It attaches to the wheel axle. If broken due to wear/fatigue, the wheel will come off and the part should be replaced. Installation is rated as "Easy" by customers and will require a socket set. This part is individually sold, gray, and constructed of metal. Refer to your make, model and diagrams to check if this is the right part for you.
Inner Door Glass – Part Number: WB36X5712
No Longer Available
Inner Door Glass
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WB36X5712
This inner door glass is sold individually.
Leveling Leg – Part Number: WB2X8248
No Longer Available
Leveling Leg
Part #WB2X8248

Exact Part matches for your search term

HHCS, 1/2-20 x 2-1/2 – Part Number: 1079
No Longer Available
HHCS, 1/2-20 x 2-1/2
This part number matches the current model number 1079
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5/32" Spindle – Part Number: 1079
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This part number matches the current model number 1079
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Bracket – Part Number: 1079
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This part number matches the current model number 1079
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Vacuum Line – Part Number: 1079
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Vacuum Line
This part number matches the current model number 1079
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SOLENOID VALVE BASE, SST – Part Number: 1079
$233.40
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SOLENOID VALVE BASE, SST
This part number matches the current model number 1079
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BMS10-106 KNOB – Part Number: 1079
$6.40
Special Order
BMS10-106 KNOB
This part number matches the current model number 1079
Part #1079

Common Symptoms of models starting with 1079

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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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