This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-o...Read moreut bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches onto the door hinge and should be replaced if broken or if there is noticeable damage. Refer to your model number and user manual to ensure...Read more this is the correct part for you. To do this repair you will need a 5/6 nut driver, a 5/16 socket, and a ratchet. For safety purposes, do not forget to turn off your appliance before making this repair. Note that this piece is black, and as per the manufacturer requires a new screw to mount the door cam which is sold individually. Please also note that this is the closing cam for the lower door, and the upper door cam is sold as a separate kit.
The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. It controls most of the basic parts and functions such as the heater, water inlet valve, the cube size...Read more, and cube ejection. If your ice maker control is broken it can no longer properly control the ice maker functions. It may not produce any ice, make small ice cubes, or have intermittent operation. This can occur due to normal wear and tear. The icemaker control assembly is attached to the ice maker mold, and is under the white cover. Test the icemaker control assembly by using a multimeter. If this reveals the assembly to be defective, you will need to replace this part. It is approximately 4.25 inches square, beige, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features one icemaker control assembly, including the control module and the motor.
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator doe...Read mores not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
This thermostat assembly is used in refrigerator units and freezers as a sensor. The thermostat senses the temperature increase in the evaporator during the cycle of defrosting and turns off when ice is melted. If you have any of the following symptoms, replacing your thermostat could solve the problem: fridge does not start, is too warm,...Read more too cold, runs too long, or will not start. The tools needed for this repair project is a putty knife, Phillips and flat blade screw driver, 1/4 inch nut driver, and needle nose pliers. Remember to unplug refrigerator from power source as a safety precaution. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
The icemaker water fill tube provides water to the icemaker so it can produce ice and dispense water. If you notice that your ice maker is not making or dispensing ice, or is leaking, you may need to replace the water fill tube. This water fill tube kit comes with a fill tube and a compression nut. This part is made of white plastic and i...Read mores approximately 10 inches in length. The ice maker water fill tube is in the rear of the fridge. To complete this repair, you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a utility knife. Before beginning this repair, you may want to disconnect the water and power supply to the refrigerator.
This refrigerator ice bucket is a genuine replacement component designed to store ice produced by the icemaker before dispensing. Compatible with a wide range of models from Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, and Amana, it is constructed from durable plastic to withstand regular use. The container is sold as a standalone part and doe...Read mores not include the auger or other internal components. Replacing a cracked or missing ice bucket helps restore proper ice storage and dispensing functionality. Installation is straightforward and typically requires no tools—simply follow the instructions in your owner's manual to ensure proper fit and alignment.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
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No ice
567 of 688 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Daniel from Suwanee, GA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation
308 of 327 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Steve earney from Brooks, GA
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then n
... Read moreot cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.