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10689489700 Kenmore Ice Maker - Overview

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Water Tube Kit – Part Number: W10823511
$27.36
In Stock
Water Tube Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #W10823511
This is the replacement water tube kit for your refrigerator. This tubing is made of plastic, is 1/4 inch in diameter, and comes with 2 inserts. This tube may be longer than the original tube, and may need to be cut. This water tube transports water to the ice and water dispensers. If your refrigerator is leaking, or if the ice and water dispensers are not dispensing properly, you may need to replace this tube. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Thermistor – Part Number: WPW10503764
$73.04
In Stock
Thermistor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #WPW10503764
This is a bin thermostat made for standalone ice makers to activate the ice maker shut-off when bin is full. It senses how much ice is in the bin to determine if it should produce more ice or activate shut-off. The bin thermostat may need to be replaced if bin is overfilled, underfilled, or not producing ice. Thermistor can be tested with an ohm meter. This part is made of plastic and metal, and is white in color. This is an authentic part sourced from the original manufacturer.
Door Light Switch – Part Number: WP2149705
$44.23
In Stock
Door Light Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
Part #WP2149705
The purpose of the light switch in your refrigerator is to automatically turn on the light when the door is opened. If the light does not come on automatically when you open the door, the contacts inside the light switch may be burned out, meaning it is time to replace the switch. This package contains both the new light switch and a small plastic spacer. To complete this repair, you will need to remove the control panel section of your refrigerator. The only tools you will require for this repair are a 1/4-inch nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the refrigerator before completing this repair.
Complete Ice Cutter Grid Assembly – Part Number: WP2313637
$163.15
In Stock
Complete Ice Cutter Grid Assembly
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★★★★★
(14)
Part #WP2313637
If your freestanding ice maker is not producing ice properly, the ice cutter grid assembly may need replacing. The cutter grid is located within the main unit of the ice maker and contains thin, heated wires that slice the ice into cubes that are then deposited in the ice bin. If the cutter grid is broken, ice can back up within the ice maker. This part is sold as a complete assembly and is used with freestanding ice makers. Be sure to wear work gloves to protect your hands when completing this repair. This is an OEM part that sources directly from the manufacturer.
Ice Cutting Grid Wire – Part Number: 4387020
$49.50
In Stock
Ice Cutting Grid Wire
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #4387020
There is approximately 10' of wire. Note: 2 kits are needed to replace both directions.
Ice Maker Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WPW10217917
$170.41
In Stock
Ice Maker Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WPW10217917
This water inlet valve supplies the water needed to both the water dispenser and the ice maker. A block in the valve could be what is keeping your machine from properly dispensing water, or making ice. Before you decide to replace this part, turn the household water supply to this valve off, and remove the input tubing to see if it is clogged. If so, clear the blockage to allow water back into the ice machine. If the ice maker is still not working properly, you may need to replace the water inlet valve. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply to your refrigerator before beginning this repair.
Ice Maker Pump – Part Number: W11566407
$75.04
In Stock
Ice Maker Pump
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #W11566407
This part is a drain pump for your ice maker. When you flush the reservoir on your ice maker to remove impurities, the drain pump is the part that removes the water from the reservoir. This is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Disconnect power to your refrigerator before making this repair.
Ice Maker Drain Fastener Cap – Part Number: WP2185696
$34.74
In Stock
Ice Maker Drain Fastener Cap
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(4)
Part #WP2185696
This is a drain fastener cap and is used in conjunction with your freezer/refrigerator. This model is almost 1.5 inches in diameter, half an inch thick, and is white in color. This piece will fasten to the bottom of the water pan in your ice maker. It keeps the water in the water pan from leaking into your appliance. If your drain cap is loose or broken, the liquid from the water pan will empty and you will have no ice or very thin ice. Make sure when replacing this part to secure the drain cap tightly.
Ice Maker Water Distributor Tube – Part Number: W10863947
$51.61
In Stock
Ice Maker Water Distributor Tube
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #W10863947
The water distributor tube distributes water from the reservoir to the evaporator plate.
Water Bucket – Part Number: WP2324334
$74.95
On Order
Water Bucket
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP2324334
This water bucket provides contained storage for collected water or ice within the appliance. Its durable construction supports regular removal and cleaning. Replacing a cracked or damaged bucket helps prevent leaks and maintain proper operation.
Ice Maker Evaporator Thermistor – Part Number: WP2313635
$63.64
In Stock
Ice Maker Evaporator Thermistor
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP2313635
Used with free-standing ice cube makers.
Ice Maker Screw – Part Number: WP3400884
$7.47
Special Order
Ice Maker Screw
Part #WP3400884
Screw size is 8-18 x 5/8". Used with stand-alone ice cube makers.

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Broken light switch
82 of 134 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randy from Hays, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
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Grid Assembly had a broken wire and would not separate the ice sheets into cubes
33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brad from Bakersfield, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the 2 screws on each side of the grid and disconnected the electrical plugs attached to the grid. I slid the broken unit out. I then carefully slid the new unit in making sure not to pinch any of the electrical wires. I replaced the mounting screws, plugged the 3 connectors back into place and turned the ice maker back on. I ha d ice cubes within a couple of hours
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the top wire on the cutting grid broke and thus no longer cut the ice. It sat on the wire until the ice melted, depositing no ice into the bin
25 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sherri from Ada, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the cutter grid and unplugged the light bulb and wire heating plug ins. I slid the front cover plate off the cutting grid and loosened the screws on the front of the cutter grid and unthreaded the broken, top grid wire, leaving the bottom wire in place as it was in tact.
I then threaded the new wire through the cutting gri d frame starting in the center and threading right and then left. While the threading was not difficult, the wire was easily kinked. The process up to this point was only 15 minutes or so.

Once it was completely threaded, I worked for a couple of hours trying to smooth and straighten the wire so that is was somewhat taut and straight enough to create symetrical ice cubes.
My frustration came in pulling on the wire from the center point to each outside ending point where it was to be wrapped around the screw and the screw tightened back down. The wire was fragile enough that it would break, by the time I was finished I barely had enough wire left to touch the screw let alone hook around the screw.
After 3 or four days of successful opperation, the grid quit cutting again. As I took it apart, it was obvious that the weight of the ice was enough to pull the wire, that was already too short, away from the screw. I refastened it again, but think it is unlikely to hold.
If it won't hold, I would be hard pressed to purchase another wire. I may bite the bullet and purchase the entire grid mechanism with the wires already installed. Even though the cost of the entire grid mechanism is $200 more than the purchase of another wire, it may well be worth the ease of installation!
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