This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-o...Read moreut bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
This ice maker (Complete Icemaker Assembly, Whirlpool Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker, Icemaker) receives water from the water inlet valve, freezes it, and dispenses it into the ice bucket until the bucket is full. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage, and water ...Read morequality. You can perform a voltage test with a multimeter or perform an inlet valve test. If you’re unable to make ice, or notice leaks then it may be a sign your ice maker is damaged and could be in need of a replacement. This model measures approximately 11x5 inches, is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/silver. This ice maker is a complete assembly; the whole assembly attaches to the wall of your freezer. ***NOTE: Ice maker does NOT come with the bail or shut off arm. You must order them separately if required. It does come complete with flat and round plug wiring harness, the mounting hardware, and the instructions. The harness can be reused. The ice maker will not fit refrigerators that have the ice auger mounted on the door.
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If...Read more the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator doe...Read mores not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
The icemaker water fill tube provides water to the icemaker so it can produce ice and dispense water. If you notice that your ice maker is not making or dispensing ice, or is leaking, you may need to replace the water fill tube. This water fill tube kit comes with a fill tube and a compression nut. This part is made of white plastic and i...Read mores approximately 10 inches in length. The ice maker water fill tube is in the rear of the fridge. To complete this repair, you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a utility knife. Before beginning this repair, you may want to disconnect the water and power supply to the refrigerator.
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a damaged end cap could be the cause. To remove the end cap, first unhook the release tab on both ends of the retainer bar. Slide out the bar and ...Read morethe end caps, and slide out the defective cap. Now, simply replace the end cap and snap the bar with end caps back in place on the refrigerator door. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
The single water inlet valve, also known as a water solenoid valve, is used for refrigerators. This part is a solenoid-operated switch that releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the icemaker mold when activated. If your icemaker is making small cubes, does not dispense ice or water, or leaks, this replacement cou...Read moreld solve the issue. The tools needed for this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a utility knife. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your dryer from the power source.
This refrigerator crisper pan is designed to maintain optimal humidity levels for storing produce, meats, and other perishables, helping extend freshness and reduce spoilage. Made from clear, durable plastic, it allows easy visibility of contents and fits securely within compatible refrigerator models. Measuring approximately 13 inches by...Read more 10 inches at the base, this drawer provides a controlled environment for food storage. Installation is straightforward, but for safety, always unplug the appliance before beginning. Refer to your refrigerator’s manual for model-specific guidance.
This is the replacement water tube kit for your refrigerator. This tubing is made of plastic, is 1/4 inch in diameter, and comes with 2 inserts. This tube may be longer than the original tube, and may need to be cut. This water tube transports water to the ice and water dispensers. If your refrigerator is leaking, or if the ice and water ...Read moredispensers are not dispensing properly, you may need to replace this tube. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint...Read more is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
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Ice Maker quit working, I could manually cycle unit but then the water would overflow when unit was re-filling.
596 of 639 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Max from Green Castle, IN
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I backed out the 2 top screws about a quarter inch and then removed bottem screw with a quater inch nut driver. I then lifted Ice Maker clear of the two top screws and lowered it enough to unclip the power connection with a small screwdriver. The new Ice Maker was wired correctley for my refrigeator so all I had to do wea reconnect the
... Read morepower connection and mount new Ice Maker on the two top screws and install the bottem screw. It took e while for the new Ice Maker to start it's cycle but after it did, it worked GREAT. Part Select service was OUTSTANDING, ordered part one day and received the next. THANKS!!!!
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No Ice in the Ice Maker
201 of 237 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Chris from Duluth, GA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Socket set
I am NOT a handyman, and my family laughed at me when I said I was going to fix the ice maker all by myself. I ordered a replacement ice maker. When it arrived, I opened the box and read the instructions. It seemed easy. I removed the old ice maker, with a socket set. I then took off the shut off lever from the old one and placed it
... Read moreon the new one, since the new one didn't come with it. I then put the new one in place. All the parts fit perfectly. The ice machine was making ice within an hour. My family was amazed... and I got the last laugh!
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.