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10657022791
10657022791 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 10657022791
[Viewing 9 of 9]
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
In Stock
Door Cam - Black
PartSelect #: PS11752991
Manufacturer #: WPW10329686
The Door Cam is a black plastic part which helps the door pivot shut while keeping the door and hinge in proper alignment. Lubricating this part upon installation may help it move easier. It attaches...
$10.56
In Stock
Icemaker Control Assembly
PartSelect #: PS2341896
Manufacturer #: W10190935
The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns th...
$118.52
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
In Stock
Shelf Support Stud - White
PartSelect #: PS372050
Manufacturer #: 4388538
This kit contains two options - One that is a push and turn and the other that is a screw in.
$25.54
In Stock
Thermostat Assembly
PartSelect #: PS11739232
Manufacturer #: WP2198202
This thermostat assembly is used in refrigerator units and freezers as a sensor. The thermostat senses the temperature increase in the evaporator during the cycle of defrosting and turns off when ice ...
$96.92
In Stock
Ice Maker Water Fill Tube Kit
PartSelect #: PS11739222
Manufacturer #: WP2196157
The icemaker water fill tube provides water to the icemaker so it can produce ice and dispense water. If you notice that your ice maker is not making or dispensing ice, or is leaking, you may need to ...
$10.14
In Stock
Refrigerator Single Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS11740365
Manufacturer #: WP2315576
The single water inlet valve, also known as a water solenoid valve, is used for refrigerators. This part is a solenoid-operated switch that releases water from the supply line to the water valve and i...
$71.47
In Stock
Crisper Cover with Glass
PartSelect #: PS4082908
Manufacturer #: W10508993
This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators.
Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
$138.21
In Stock
STUD-SHELF
PartSelect #: PS16730711
Manufacturer #: W11581579
This is a 12 piece kit.
$28.81
In Stock
ICEMAKER
PartSelect #: PS16660327
Manufacturer #: W11510803
This genuine OEM ice maker kit is designed to fit refrigerators that did not originally come with an ice maker. This kit contains everything needed to install the new ice maker on your refrigerator in...
$127.17
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.79
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 10657022791
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Common Symptoms of the 10657022791
[Viewing 21 of 21]Ice maker not making ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too warm
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Light not working
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Will Not Start
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge too cold
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Not dispensing water
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Too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No ice
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
Parts Used:
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Daniel from Suwanee, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
557 of 665 people
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inconsistent compressor and condensor fan operation
Compressor start relay would cycle several times before compressor would come on. Replaced start relay and defrost timer assy. Operated more consistently however not completely reliable. Ice would begin to melt. Noticed that if you would cycle the temperature control the compressor would start again and operate for several hours then n
... Read more
ot cycle again. Jumpered temp control and operation was continuous and reliable. Replaced cold control thermostat. Operation now normal. Suspect high resistance in switch caused start relay and timer contacts to arc. Small amount of carbon noticed under temp control...
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Parts Used:
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Steve earney from Brooks, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
305 of 320 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
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