Models > 10651139210

10651139210 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 10651139210

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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter – Part Number: EDR1RXD1
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(101)
PartSelect #: PS11701542
Manufacturer #: EDR1RXD1
This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
$103.87
  In Stock
Refrigerator Air Filter – Part Number: W10311524
Refrigerator Air Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(43)
PartSelect #: PS2580853
Manufacturer #: W10311524
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$21.54
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(83)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.37
  In Stock
Gallon Door Bin - Clear – Part Number: WPW10710203
Gallon Door Bin - Clear
★★★★★
★★★★★
(69)
PartSelect #: PS11757236
Manufacturer #: WPW10710203
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators. The door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
$42.88
  In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(27)
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.55
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WPW10661886
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11757021
Manufacturer #: WPW10661886
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$12.71
  In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP489483
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$13.07
  In Stock
Seal – Part Number: WP2198628
Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11739241
Manufacturer #: WP2198628
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
$14.57
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2169142
Evaporator Fan Blade
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$37.10
  In Stock
Thimble Top – Part Number: WP2182181
Thimble Top
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS11739043
Manufacturer #: WP2182181
For white, biscuit, black and stainless models.
$11.13
  In Stock
Icemaker Motor Kit – Part Number: 8201515
Icemaker Motor Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect #: PS733947
Manufacturer #: 8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
$116.00
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for 10651139210

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Vicente
March 3, 2020
Why is water leaking from top of my dispencer
For model number 10651139210
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Hello Vicente, thank you for writing. A water inlet valve is usually the cause when this symptom occurs.

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Nancy
March 29, 2023
Is a crisper drawer the same as a deli drawer? I need a deli drawer.
For model number 10651139210
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Hi Nancy, thank you for reaching out. Based on our research, the deli drawer is also known as the meat drawer and it is usually used to store meat. The part you are looking for is the deli drawer, part number PS11751281. Glad to be of assistance!

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Claudia
May 3, 2024
I already unplugged for 5 minutes and is not cooling what else I can do?
For model number 10651139210
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Hi Claudia, thank you for the question. We have concluded that the issue is with the start relay, part number PS11750123. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!

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Denny
March 10, 2022
I need a replacement led main light module, refrigerator side - cannot find that mod.#! What is compatible/acceptable mod# part for that model? Most are #105 ==== thank you
For model number 10651139210
PartSelect logo
Hi Denny, Thank you for your question. The part number listed under the model number you provided for the refrigerator side LED light is PS11755866. If you need help placing an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Betty
January 30, 2023
What is the replacement shelf part number?
For model number 10651139210
PartSelect logo
Hello Betty, thank you for your question. We find the top Shelf to be PS11755629( discontinued). The Shelf over the deli drawer is PS11755137. And the Bottom two are the same part number PS11755139. We are pleased to have been able to help.

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Common Symptoms of the 10651139210

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker not making ice
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Leaking
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Not dispensing water
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Clicking sound
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Door Sweating
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
155 of 180 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Switch
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
121 of 203 people found this instruction helpful.
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KITCHEN AID SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR ICE-MAKER stopped working due to a broken motor assembly.
Changing the KITCHENAID MOTOR ASSEMBLY TO THE ICE-MAKER was fairly straightforward. The hardest part was figuring out WHAT was broken and how to fix it. I was determined to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing it myself and avoiding a visit by the 'repairman'.

1.) Went to KitchenAid website to look at Parts List for my side-by-side refrigerator and ice maker assembly (a PDF file, easily downloadable) . The illustrations helped me visualize the assembly and various parts involved.
2.) Removed cover on front of ice maker.
3.) Removed hex-head screw on undersurface of icemaker on the right, which stablilizes a plastic cover for the electrical connector to the ice maker. Once this is off, it's then possible to slide the ice maker out.
4.) Slide the ice maker out from it's 'shelf' in the freezer. You won't be able to completely remove it until you disconnect the power supply.
5.) Disconnect the multi-pin power connector. (It's probably safest to unplug the refrigerator altogether before doing this, but I did not. No exposed metal wiring or connectors. No problems when I did it this way.)
6.) Once the ice-maker was out, remove the white cover from the motor assembly (on the left side of the unit).
7.) Remove the three screws from the black housing of the motor assembly. (This is where I discovered that the connector between the motor and drive-train was broken and needed to be replaced.)
8.) Remove and replace the drive system for the ice cube ejector.
9.) Then reverse the steps to reassemble.

This may seem a bit vague, but it's really quite straightforward once the ice maker is out of the freezer. The replacement motor assembly includes the motor, the motor housing, the drive-train, and the ice-cube ejector. Very easy to re-asemble.

Shopping for and ordering the part took some time since there are so many different after-market parts dealers. In all honesty, I'm glad I decided on PartSelect.com. They had a decent price, safe checkout, and timely delivery. All the essentials of a good online store.

Thanks, and good luck to the next guy who has to deal with a KitchenAid snafu.
Parts Used:
Icemaker Motor Kit
  • ANDREW from DURANGO, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
56 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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