This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators.
The door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
This ice maker is for refrigerators.
Ice maker includes the ice mold and the control device. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and then holds the water in the ice mold until t...
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$37.20
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 10651133213
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Don Terry
January 12, 2020
Kenmore in door ice maker no water. Water valve is working
For model number 10651133213
Hi Don. The filter may need to be replaced. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
Hi Nonna, thank you for reaching out. Based on our research, the part you are looking for is the LED light, part number PS11755866. The same light is used in both the fridge and the freezer, so you will need to buy two of them. We hope this helps!
The freezer light stopped working and the the fridge light will come on very dim sometimes not at all. If I push the door switch a few times the light will flicker in the fridge. Nothing at all with the freezer. Fridge and freezer are holding temp.
For model number 10651133213
Hi Bob, thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the Door Switches, part number PS12728638, and part number PS12731166. If that does not take care of the issue, we would suggest checking the LED Light, part number PS11755866, and the light control board, part number PS11755867. We hope this information is useful!
Hello Merlyn, Thank you for the question. If none of the lights in the appliance are working this could be an indication the LED Light Control Board is faulty and may need to be replaced. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Ice cubes freeze but won't dump out. Cube tray returns upright and water flows over cubes, freezing everything up.
For model number 10651133213
Hello Stephanie, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking the auger motor coupling, part number PS11739763. It attaches to the auger drive motor and connects to the ice container auger. Also, inspect the auger motor, part number PS12349163. It turns the auger that pushes the ice cubes through the dispenser chute. Please ensure that there are no ice clumps in the ice maker that would block the flow of the ice cubes. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
