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1046 - Overview

Models starting with 1046

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Burner Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10015
$22.52
In Stock
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(31)
Part #WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10014
$18.22
In Stock
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be found beneath the element and catches spills. If your old burner bowl is damaged or missing, you may need to replace it with this part.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Door Handle End Cap – Part Number: WB07K10043
$56.38
In Stock
Door Handle End Cap
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WB07K10043
This white end cap is sold individually. One cap is required for each end of the oven door handle.
Main Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: 5304409888
$40.60
In Stock
Main Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #5304409888
Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches the power cord to the inner wiring of your appliance. If the terminal block is faulty, your appliance will not get the power it needs to operate properly. When removing the old block pay close attention to the wire placement, this will make installing your new part much easier. If you notice any of the wires or wire terminals are corroded or damaged they will also need to be replaced.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$147.53
In Stock
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: 5304504897
$53.85
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #5304504897
The temperature sensor, also known as an oven probe, helps measure the temperature within the oven cavity. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, has little to no heat when baking, or flashing F3/F4 error messages on your control board, you may need to replace this part. This part measures 6" long and is made of metal. Please make sure to disconnect the power to your oven range before starting this repair. This temperature sensor is a genuine OEM part.
Element Grommet – Part Number: 5300806833
No Longer Available
Element Grommet
Part #5300806833
This grommet is used in a number of household appliances. Most often it is used in the dishwasher as part of the assembly that mounts and holds the heating element in place. This replacement part is made out of rubber, which helps create a seal between the element and the appliance. This grommet is sold individually. If you are replacing the heating element, or the brass nut that holds it in place, we recommend you replace the grommet at the same time. Before you begin any repair work on your dishwasher, make sure you have unplugged it and shut off the water supply.
Bottom Trim - White – Part Number: WB07K10250
$31.86
In Stock
Bottom Trim - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WB07K10250
Screws not included.
BASKET – Part Number: 5304509753
$45.11
In Stock
BASKET
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #5304509753
This is a basket for your dishwasher. It sits in the lower dishrack and holds small utensils during a washing cycle. This basket has six smaller sections where you can separate your cutlery into specific groups. This silverware holder is made entirely of plastic with a crisscross pattern allowing water and small food particles to pass through it during the cleaning process. This model is grey and roughly 14 inches long, about 6 inches high, and almost 4 inches thick.
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15X10018
$48.35
Special Order
Door Handle
Part #WB15X10018
This is just the handle. The end caps for this handle must be ordered separately if needed.
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15X10048
$73.04
In Stock
Door Handle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB15X10048
Handle only. Screws not included.

Exact Part matches for your search term

DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 1046
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
This part number matches the current model number 1046
Part #1046
Bearing – Part Number: 1046
No Longer Available
Bearing
This part number matches the current model number 1046
Part #1046
PL1340-20-0204-00 SPACER – Part Number: 1046
$28.17
Special Order
PL1340-20-0204-00 SPACER
This part number matches the current model number 1046
Part #1046

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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
109 of 174 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede d are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
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Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
40 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
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