Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
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baffle broke off and needed to be replaced

  • Customer: Fred from Blairstown NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
we replaced the baffle by removing the broken baffle. There were two screws holding it in place. Door and front panel of dryer had to be removed to accomplish this task. Quite an easy repair/replacement. Thank you for all your help PartSelect.com.

the water drain pump started to make grinding noises and poor draining

  • Customer: carlos from rio rancho NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
the repairs couldn't be easier, the pump came right out. just loosen the two water drain hoses and out it came. the intallation was just as easy...

Dryer was making awful noise during use

  • Customer: Pam from Aberdeen WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the screws and took the door off then took the front panel off and popped up the top. Then pulled the drum out. Took snap ring pliers and removed rollers and replaced with new rollers then vacuumed all lint from machine and reversed operation to put everything back together. Operation was a total success!

Seal failure, leading to bearing failure

  • Customer: James from Chillicothe IL
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Not much to add to others' descriptions of the repair except for two things- one, the procedure for removing the front shroud on a stackable unit is somewhat different than what is described in the seal kit directions. The door switch assembly gets in the way; though the whole repair can be done by one person, it would be better (and safer) to have a second person helping at least during this part. The whole shroud is unwieldy, with two drain hoses attached, along with two dispenser hoses, the door switch/light, and the side & bottom mounting brackets, and it has to be eased out one step at a time. During the last part of this you will have to lift up the front of the dryer at the same time.

Second, our particular washer has a 90xxxx serial number. The bearings are Chinese-sourced, not the good NSK bearings. Though the listed bearing numbers are the same... the rear bearing is held in by a retainer that is permanently fixed into the outer tub. There is no easy way to drive the bearing forward, either, as the retainer covers nearly all the bearing outer shell. The chances are very high that the outer tub would be damaged beyond repair if the retainer or bearing was removed. Fortunately in this washer, the back bearing was still in reasonable shape and had some grease left; I was able to pop out the grease seal and re-pack it with wheel bearing grease. The front bearing & seal are replaced as others have described. The front bearing takes a majority of the load, so others may have similar wear.

This washer was only 3 1/2 years old; we bought six Maytag appliances at the same time, and four of the six have had major repair problems (two were cheaper to replace than repair). That, and the $678 replacement cost of the outer tub, explains why the Maytag repairman is so lonely...

Broken Pump

  • Customer: Drake from Crofton MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Roll washer out of drain pan on section of 3" PVC pipe. Unplug washer & disconnect hoses. Remove rear access panel with nutdriver. Disconnect wiring harness from pump. Disconnect hoses from pump using screwdriver and pliers. Twist pump counter-clockwise to separate from bottom of washer housing. Transfer electronic component from old to new pump. Install new pump in reverse order as above.

bearings on tub bad

  • Customer: Richard from Swanton OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I removed everything to get to the inner tub then removed the belt pulley and pushed inner tub and shaft out of the outer tub. Then I used a die grinder and cut bearings out. I am a Machine Repairman by trade. I have cut out a lot of bearings before but nothing this small. It took 2hrs. I fit new bearings to the outer tub and shaft. Then put on the new seal and reassembled The bearings I got the at Granger approximately $45., and new seal approximately $40.. All I read on this washer is the bearings could not be replaced. The new outer tub with bearings is well over $400. At that price plus labor nobody repairs these washers. I have seen some on Craig list not in working order These washers are not that old.
I ended up buying the same thing for my daughter in law. Same bearings and seal. For the short service life I have received from the Maytag Neptune, I don’t think I would buy or recommend Maytag products.



I like to do this kind of work. Rich

Door would not lock, stopping the wash cycle

  • Customer: James from Scotts Valley CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Wax motor was operational but door would not always lock. Rebuilt the latch mechanism with new parts including all three switches. Latch now makes an audible click when it engages, like it did when new.

Daughters destroyed door seal with comforter caught in the door...

  • Customer: Glenn from New Paltz NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
*** MY REPAIR STORY ***

*** Rule #1: READ THE OTHER STORIES FIRST! ***

The best tip was supplied by the guy that used a piece of good twine/string to help him reconnect the inner seal cable and spring assembly; the whole business of using a buddy to do so is a lot of hooey. Save yourself the aggravation of using your wife, kid or other mechanically-declined individual, and use the string trick. It is still a royal pain, but it is far superior with only one person, using the unbeatable mechanical advantage that the string gives you. I used a piece of good waxed poly twine; I tied it to a convenient hole near the front right side corner of the machine, and then threaded it throught the spring and pulled it with some good pliers in order to stretch the spring enough to re-engage the other loop of the inner seal cable, using needle nose pliers. Of course, it took about four shots to get it right, but I was particularly anal about getting the cable ends in their originally-installed orientation. In retrospect, it ought not make too much of a difference, as long as you keep the spring near the top of the drum and respect the placement of the cable: make sure it is fully in its recess in the seal, all the way 'round. Additionally, pay close attention to the drain hose attachment and outer seal installation; you don't want any more leaks. I have strong fingers so it was a snap, and there are both molded recesses, arrows and "tits" along the seal edges that correspond to the outline of the machine's mating surfaces. Please take the time to push in all the lugs all the way all around in all positions; your floor's dryness is depending on you. As far as the inner seal cable/spring situation goes, be aware that any slight failure to get it right will likely cause a "domino effect" that will necessitate that you to reinstall the seal along its entire periphery, on both inner and outer sides... hold onto that cable, and watch as you tension the spring... it will cause the inner seal to walk off the drum if you aren't paying attention, and you will not be able to recover the perfect position you had at first. In honesty, that is the only "difficult" part of the job. Ensure you've had ample food & drink before you undertake seal replacement ( and not alcoholic drink, either... ) !

As with all jobs of this type, the end was far better than the beginning... the machine doesn't spew water out onto the floor anymore, and helped reinforce my claim to the "most useful" Family Member status! lol My wife was nice to me for almost a week afterwards... your mileage may vary.

PartSelect.com, thank you so much for not only the right part at the right price delivered fast, but also the forum where others could report their repair experiences in order to give a good heads up to those contemplating this repair job. Super site, super business, would definitely use again. A+

Regards,

Glenn Buononato

The spinner support had sheared off

  • Customer: Stacie from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the drum. Removed the spinner support. Removed old seals. Reinstalled new spinner support. Reinstalled pulley and belt. Reinstalled drum. Reinstalled machine covers.

LR Code on the display, washer would not spin.

  • Customer: William from Colver PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel and took out the old control board, which had a burnt spot on it. Removed back panel and took out the old motor. Put in the new motor and then the new control panel. Runs perfect.

The moister sensor broke away from it's two fasteners inside the dryer drum.

  • Customer: David from Preston CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed the two fasteners, rerouted one wire using a wire coat hanger, plugged in the new moisture sensor to the two wires and fastened the the sensor in place using the two existing screws.

Washer would not drain

  • Customer: William from Jennings FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Since the machine would not drain, I suspected the drain pump. A friend in appliance repair tested that for me and it was good. All one has to do with that is hook a test line to the pump with 120 volts and if it runs it is good. He then told me to see it the mother board which is located in the right upper area above the dryer drum had a burned place at a resistor and to note if the door would not lock. I checked this and the circuit board was not damaged and the wax motor which locks the door was working OK. (This unit is a combo stack dryer and washer) I then suspected the timer because my wife told me that it had been making a grinding noise. The timer was replaced by the one you sent me and it solved the problem. ( My friend really did not want to work on this machine since he had replaced the inner drum and bearing about six months ago and it took all day)Thanks a bunch. The timer came in one day from the time of order.

The short baffle came loose and was rattling around in the dryer.

  • Customer: Melissa from Cedar Rapids IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy, based on the comments from this website. I used a 6-in-1 screwdriver, and that was the only tool. I removed the two screws holding the hinges, removed the door, then the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. This allowed the front panel to come off. I spun the dryer tumbler until the baffle that was loose was at approximately 5 o'clock. I unscrewed the remaining screw and found the missing screw in the bottom of the dryer. I put those two screws into the new baffle, and popped the front back in place. I reinstalled the four screws (two opposite the hinge, then the two that hold the hinges)...all done in about 20 minutes (including vacuuming the lint out from that lower area).

Washer would not drain

  • Customer: Scott from Sedalia MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Starting out I found the code that the washer was showing,ND, Meaning no drain so I read up on and people where saying that the pump had a blockage in it, so I took the back of the washer to gain acess to the pump, I took the drain hose off to look in side to see if there was a problem there was nothing in the pump itself so I started to remove the pump I undid the wiring harness to find the problem, the red wire to the pump had burned in the harness order the part from part select and 30 minutes later my wife was doing laundry again..........Thanks partselect for the fast shipping and quality parts very easy repair.

drum would not spin and would trip the overload protector

  • Customer: joshua from longmont CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
pulled the motor and replaced it and not having any issues since.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
46-60 of 652