Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
61-75 of 652
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Dryer wouldn't start

  • Customer: SALLY from ANAHEIM CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.

drum would not spin and would trip the overload protector

  • Customer: joshua from longmont CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
pulled the motor and replaced it and not having any issues since.

loud noise inside dryer

  • Customer: Terry from Caruthersville MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.

no heat from the dryer

  • Customer: James from blanchester OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I had to find out just how the dryer came apart. Most of the time, the back comes off but with this particular Maytag, it is the front that has to be removed. Once the four screws from either side are removed, the front pops off and the canister that holds the heating element is right there on the bottom. Cleaning away years of lint was fun but the heating canister was removed quickly using two screws and removing four wires that attached to the unit. Once the screws were removed (top back and bottom front) and the wires removed, the replacement unit slid right in without any problems. The regulator on the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit before installation. I closed up the front, put the four screws back in and snapped the front closed and the dryer worked perfectly.

HIGH PITCH NOISE DURING SPIN CYCLE THE SEAL FAILED CAUSING THE BEARING TO FAIL ALSO

  • Customer: tommy from madisonville KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First i removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires.Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside.Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley.Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft.This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine.Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out.This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.

  • Customer: Richard from Loretto MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Bearings making loud rough noise

  • Customer: Gregory from El Dorado AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to all the others who gave detailed information I was able to replace the front & rear bearings and front seal. I must say it was a time comsuming job but at least I am alot clearer on the quality of clothes washing machines. I do believe I could give a manufacturer / designer some design points after working on this Maytag Neptune. I was able to knock out the bearing shaft that held the stainless perforated tumbler inside the plastic tub/drum by using a #3 LB hammer I reinstalled the old screw in the shaft which held the plastic pully on because this would keep the end of the shaft from being damaged. After several blows it started moving I was afraid I might damage the plastic drum but fortunately no damage was done to it. After removing the stainless steel perforated tumbler here is where it really got interesting. The Hub that held the old seal was shot! pretty much deteorated from corosion it seems. Here is where I could significantly help a manufactured/designer out The bearing/seal hub should have been made out of stainless instead of Pot metal/ aluminum or whatever they made it from. After much cleaning with a small wire brush and vacuming all the debree out of the Tub I didn't have much hub left to install the new seal. Also the three armed Spinner was very coroaded it attaches to the back of the stainless tumbler I removed it from the stainless tumbler and wire brushed it the back side was full of crud, it looked like left over washing powder or soap and Corosion debree it was a job just cleaning it up. I pressed on and on though replacing both bearings front and rear. Thanks to another person who explained the easy way to remove the bearings and race I was able to do so without removing the Drum/Tub as others stated they had to do. The Dremmel and a few Cutter blades did the trick I cut a wide V notch in the bearings and the bearings fell out I then cut through the bearing race being careful not to cut too deeply although if you did slightly cut beyond the race it really wouldn't matter because the front seal will keep it from leaking anyway. Anyway when I cut through the race it made a ping sound and the race pulled away and fell right out of the HuB. The front & rear bearings a definately serviceable and it doesn't have to be a beat/bang ordeal. after cleaning up the hub I tapped the new bearings in place and discarded the metal spacer that went inside the middle of hub. I then brainstormed on how I could install the new Lip Seal upgrade and then it dawned on me that since the inner Hub that holds the seal was so far gone and only enough left to barely hold the new seal in I remembered the ole saying Don't Discard just use JB Stick or JB Quick I used JB Stick to fill in around the new seal because it is supposed to bond to metal and it did just that I pressed the putty in quickly before it hardened bringing it out even with the plastic drum where the origional hub should have been and made the repair to the deteriorated Hub so that the Seal would stay in place it Worked! This Maytag Neptune was given to me by my mother in-law she did not want to wait on the repair after I tried to previously repair the problem with it I just did not delv deeply enough into the problem with this washingmachine at first. I previously removed both Pumps thinking they were not pumping all the water out because the Towels especially were staying soaked. Both the pumps were nasty with alot of debree inside of them now I know that because of the deteriorated Seal Hub on the inside had done the dirty work. The Pumps can be easily taken apart only a few screws and the plastic impeller can be gently pried off also that is where I found alot of particles from the deteoriated Seal Hub I then reinstalled the pumps and they worked fine pumped out the water. Then that is when I noticed it wasn't cycling properly also Ha Ha I thought to myself what else could possibly be wrong with this washing machine? Thanks to Parts Select site I wa

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

door boot seal was all milldew

  • Customer: gary from tecumseh MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"

  • Customer: keith from saluda VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place

Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

Dryer would not require start button to start, and buzzer would only stop after dryer door opened.

  • Customer: Richard from McKinney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect dryer power supply, remove back cover from console, by removing 5screws. Pull out start switch using screwdriver to release plastic locking clips, disconnect wiring harness, reconnect wiring harness to new switch, and slide new switch into the mounting location, allowing the locking clips to engage. Reinstall back console cover, reconnect power supply, and test.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
61-75 of 652