Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
61-75 of 652
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Gilbert from Hollister CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws from the dryer front cover (located just under door)I Then swung font cover up and off it's latches. Exposing drum asy and heating element. Using a nut driver to remove two hold down screws and disconnect electrical wires from heating element. Really simple! took me approxmatly 20 minutes and this included vacuuming inside motor area with a shop vac.

My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.

  • Customer: Richard from Loretto MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Dryer wouldn't start

  • Customer: SALLY from ANAHEIM CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

washer would not drain water

  • Customer: deb from new madison OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
my husband took the old part off. order the new part thru your company...3 days later the part came in. then he reattached thee part to the hoses with the champs and we said alittle pray and i had my washer back

Dryer would not require start button to start, and buzzer would only stop after dryer door opened.

  • Customer: Richard from McKinney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect dryer power supply, remove back cover from console, by removing 5screws. Pull out start switch using screwdriver to release plastic locking clips, disconnect wiring harness, reconnect wiring harness to new switch, and slide new switch into the mounting location, allowing the locking clips to engage. Reinstall back console cover, reconnect power supply, and test.

door boot seal was all milldew

  • Customer: gary from tecumseh MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running

  • Customer: John from Warsaw IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

The pump would not empty the washer.

  • Customer: Wilson from Logansport IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I had taken the back off the washer already. The pump was connected to an incoming fitting and the out going fitting with hose clamps. Removed the hose and hose clamps from the old pump, connected the hose and hose clamps to the new pump, reconnected the wiring and that was about it. The pump was mounted to the bottom panel of the washer by simply plastic plugs requiring no tools. It was very easy.

HIGH PITCH NOISE DURING SPIN CYCLE THE SEAL FAILED CAUSING THE BEARING TO FAIL ALSO

  • Customer: tommy from madisonville KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First i removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires.Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside.Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley.Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft.This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine.Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out.This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta. NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
61-75 of 652