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PartSelect Number PS11743033
This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etcCarefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
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If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together. I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.
Note: You may want to consider replacing the 2 Drum Support rollers at this time (while your in there)1. UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST.2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached as straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top of the dryer closed.5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.10. Reassemble(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)
Unplugged the unitRemoved door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the topOf the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the twoBottom clips.You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts INeeded to order. The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrelA couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removedNote the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where theTwo steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off thatSupports the barrel.There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go toThe door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assemblyI used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holdsThe bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pinThe tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reachedAround from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt aroundThe motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrelMakes me think I should have been a repairman.
Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!Very helpful site.
removed dryer door 4 screwsremoved front panelremoved front tumbler bracketremoved blower coverremoved wires attached to heat and door sensorsremoved topremoved drum and beltremoved side panel removed clamp holding idler pulleyreplaced pulley and clampreversed above steps
On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought. Warner
I looked up my problem online and everything I saw said to change the roller wheels that hold the barrel of the dryer. After doing that (twice, once on each side) I was still having a horrible squeaking sound so bad that we were waiting to do laundry until we were leaving for a while. Finally I determined that the problem was actually the idler wheel. All I had to do was remove the bolt holding the idler arm on (it's the arm that has a spring connected to it that moves to allow the belt on or off) and put the new arm with the new wheel on. The dryer is now whisper quiet and works perfectly.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot
I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.
The repair was very simple, the information video was a very big help. Followed the steps just by watching the video. All the parts came apart and back together as stated in the video. Cannot be any easier. I used all the parts I order, but all it really needed was the drum support roller kit (noise) and the idler pulley (worn pulley). Dryer is quiet once again. WooHoo.
Followed directions provided in video which are very clear and helpful. Took your expert about 15 - 20 minutes, but in reality it takes about an 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours which included cleaning out the whole cabinet area. Did not need the idler arm but did not want to find out after taking everything apart that a new one was needed.Also suggest drawing a sketch of how the belt goes around the drum,idler and motor for reference when reinstalling.
Disassembly of this model dryer is from the front panel. First remove the door (4 screws). Next, pull the front panel off (two clips top, two latches bottom - no tools needed). Romove two screws holding top latches from either side. Raise the top, then remove four screws and two 'bolts' for front panel. After you take the front panel off, then remove two screws holding front tumbler support. NOTE: Pay attention to belt routing prior to removal of belt and tumbler. Remove belt and tumbler. Access to the idler arm is now easy. Remove one screw holding idler arm to motor and replace parts. Assembly is reverse. Hint: Hang the belt over the tumbler and reach under to route belt on assembly.
First let me say I went on your forum and got instructions where to download a service manual which helped greatly. Unplugged from outlet. Removed 4 screws holding on the front panel then 4 more holding on the front tumbler support and air duct. Removed wires from light and dryness sensor and clips holding wires to panels. Pulled out the tumbler and removed belt. Removed the two drum support rollers and shafts by removing a nut on the back side of each shaft. Removed snap ring off each old shaft, installed new rollers and fiber washers onto new shafts installed snap ring and replaced on brackets with the old nut. Removed tension spring off idler pulley bracket and one screw holding on the bracket. Installed new pulley and fiber washers on new bracket and reinstalled bracket and spring. Placed new belt on tumber and reinstalled tumbler. Used drill and bit to drill out pop rivits holding on the two front glides that are attached on the front tumbler support and installed new glides and pop rivited in. Reinstalledfront support and air duct checking that felt tumbler seal front and rear were in place. Placed new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Reinstalled front panel. Removed bulb cover held on by one screw, Installed new light bulb. Also took shop vac and cleaned inside of cabinet when I had the tumber out. Plugged back in and started, sounds and works like new. Ordered parts on Sunday received Tuesday evening Fed Ex. First time dryer repair. Very happy with PartSelect web site and service.
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