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PartSelect Number PS11740647
This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many of Maytag's brands of gas and electric clothes dryers. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 170 degrees Fahrenheit.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Remove 2 front door screws and 2 side cover screws . Remove front cover replace switches and fuses.De- lint the blower and vent duct.Reinstall cover door finished.
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Detach front door and pop off front panel. Replaced heating unit on right and all parts on unit. Replaced cycling timer and thermostor on left. The thermostat was the last item replaced. We did this on three stages. First we replaced heating element, still had problem. Then we replaced the high limit and cycling thermostats, still had problem. Had a repairman out. He could not figure it out, because there were no error codes. He suggested replacing the thermostor. We did that and it fixed our problem. We could have saved alot if we did that first, but no one mentioned that part.
First I unplugged the dryer! Then unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the front door. To remove the front door, swing the bottom up about 30 degrees until the two triangular hooks at the top of the door release. Then release the two wires going to the door switch from their harness so as to gain more slack to move the door out of the way. The switch was secured by 2 hex head sheet metal screws1/4inch in diameter. I used a small right angle socket wrench to get these loose. I only had to remove the front screw completely to be able to take the switch out for exchange purposes. Once this was done, reverse the process and plug it in! (BTW, the electrical schematic for this dryer is up under the top console)
replaced high limit thermostat-303396 and cycling thermostat-306056 approx $48.00. Remove dryer door with 2 screws in hinges and 2 screws on other side.Remove front panel-pull out from top-swing down to unhinge from bottom hooks to expose parts lower front. Small socket for high limit thermostat bolts@heating element housing and same socket for cycling thermostat@blowerexhaust air housing-both easily accessible in front lower area.Unplug power before working inside.
Removed the front (two screws at bottom).Marked all the wires for the door switch, bulb socket and sensor and unplugged.Removed the barrel hanger (four hex screws two each side).Cleaned and vacuumed internals.Removed the front hanger and barrell.Started with rear rollers, removed old rollers and washers. Using 1/2" box end wrench loosened roller shaft nuts on rear of bracket.Installed in reverse shafts, washers, rollers, snap rings.Installed new theromstat on new element, Removed screws from old element.Swapped wires from one post on old element to new. Installed new element.Reinstalled barrell, and front hanger. Realigned new belt, making sure all clearences around idler pulley.Free wheeled barrel, no binding.Re-attached sensor and switch leads. Reattached front.Plugged in and tested successful. Took two hours and three beers.
First I removed the two screws from the dryer front cover (located just under door)I Then swung font cover up and off it's latches. Exposing drum asy and heating element. Using a nut driver to remove two hold down screws and disconnect electrical wires from heating element. Really simple! took me approxmatly 20 minutes and this included vacuuming inside motor area with a shop vac.
Opened front of dryer & watched the heating unit not shutting off. Purchased the proper high limit thermostat. Replaced it and the multi-temp cycling thermostat for good measure. My dryer runs like new with no additional problems. Thanks for making parts so readily available. Thought I was going to have to replace my dryer, but now it's fixed.....Thanks,again.
Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well
Removed front cover, removed old heating unit, installed new thermostat,heating coil inside the dryer and finally replaced the fuse in the front. The main complication was reaching the screws for the heating coil, not really complex.
Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.
Front panel came off with two philips head screws.First thermostat was behind a 2 screw sheet metal barrier.Second was far right and slightly cramped, but a right anglerachet drive and phillips head bit did the trick.The wire colors were an exact match to the OEM thermostats.So far the dryer is running shorter, and there is almost no water in the vent tube or the face of the dryer door opening. A cheap fix for an old reliable dryer.Whle you're in the guts, always vacuum out all the lint and dust on all parts. Stupid to leave it dirty and run less efficient.
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