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MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
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Door problem on Maytag stacked washer/dryer

  • Customer: William from Jennings FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 31 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
This is a Washer/Dryer stack unit. Had trouble with the power light not going off automatically. Had to press the power on/off switch to get it to turn off and allow the door to open. While this was going on, the washer would rotate every few seconds and would continue this until the off switch was pressed. Tried replacing the door lock enabler switches and the timer. This did not help. Finally smelled an electrical odor and found that the mother board (located in the upper right front part of the dryer) had a burned resistor (R-11) When this happens, it requires replacing the wax motor and the mother board. This corrected the problem. If you do have problems with the door lock, I would suggest replacing the wax motor as soon as possible. If the wax motor isn't replaced it may burn the new mother board. If I had replaced the wax motor initially, I doubt if the mother board resistor would have burned. Works fine now.

The dryer was making a terrible noise that sounded like bearings squealing.

  • Customer: Edward from Pike Road AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I've never even opened this dryer before so I looked at one of the installation videos PartSelect has. I found one using my model, which made it really easy. I removed the front panel and door, then lifted the top of the dryer up on it's hinges: that's a great feature because you need the top out of the way to remove the drum. I took the belt off the drum, lifted it up and pulled it straight out. I did buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring off the drum support shaft. I think you really must have those to remove and replace the rings. Be careful when removing the snap rings. I shot the first one across the room like it was a rubber band. We had a good laugh. I used a wrench to hold the nut on the backside of the roller shaft and unscrewed it. I screwed the new roller shafts on, slipped the drum rollers on them, then carefully used the snap ring pliers to place the rings on the front of the shaft to hold the rollers on. While I had the unit opened up, I figured I should go ahead and replace the multi rib belt. I put the ribbed side on the drum and sat the drum on the rollers . The tricky part is now getting down on the ground, reaching under the drum for the belt. Make sure the belt isn't twisted anywhere on the drum or in your hands while you pull the belt under the idler pulley. Hold the belt ribbed sides together while feeding the belt under the pulley. It takes a good deal of strength to move the pulley over so you can hook the end of the belt on the shaft. Once you've gotten that attached, put your hand inside the drum and rotate it a few times to make sure you connected it properly and that you placed the belt in the right spot on the drum. It was easy to see the black stripe around the drum where I'd taken off the old one.

loud noise from tub bearings on final spin cycle

  • Customer: Joel from Rosemount MN
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
use an online repair manual for your model, but in the manual it states that the tub bearings are not replaceable, if you are a skilled person capable and competent with fixing mechanical things you should be able to replace the bearings, don't forget to put in a new seal. the bearings can be found at , have the old ones in hand for proper size as these bearings are only sold by dimension. This repair will take some time and patience.

Door boot needed to be replaced after it was damaged when my wife tried to wash a stiff rubber rug

  • Customer: David from Parker CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the other instructions provided by your toher users. Basically I reomved the 4 face screws secruing the front pannel assembley and the door hinges as described with a philips head screw driver. Removal of the door was easily accomplished once you played witht he hinges to slide them upward slightly to clear the lips. The soap dispenser was then loosened by removing the 4 corner screws. Take care not to completely remove the soap dish. It simply needs to be moved aside with the flexible hoses still attached. This is accomplished once the top lid is hinged upward out of the way. The face panel can then be removed and set asside ater removing the screws holding it in place. Remove the damaged boot with the anterior face (door side)first. It simply gets pulled away from the sealing flanges. With the top lid removed you should have direct visualization and access to the retaining cable and the spring tensioner. I found that neither of the previously described methods of taking the tension with pliers or having an assistant were particularly helpful. Under the soap dispenser you will notice a hole in the top lip of the side frame. I attached a piece of rope to this hole using a small snap link. The other end of the rope had an "s" link set into the middle of the rope and the other end hooked over the spring hook. Now puliing back on the loose end of the rope back towards the attachment point creates a mechanical advantage easing the spring open and then using pliers you can easily remove the retaining cable. Ease off the spring and then set aside. The posterior portion of the door boot can now be removed and the old piece discarded. Take care to disconnect the drain plug at the bottom first. Replacing the boot was fairly straighforward. I attached the posterio portion first taking care to align the indentions were appropriate. Once is was attached and aligned, use the rope assembly once again to draw tension on the spring in a controlled fashion. Hold the other end of the cable with some needle nose pliers and slip over the spring hook once enough tension is applied. This method only took me one try and the mechanical advantage created was very effective. I then turned my attention to the anterior portion of the boot and pushed it into the flanges. I also found the the required pressure was a bit stiff and your fingers will get tired quickly. Use a smooth stick or a spatula particularly underneath the door latch assembly since space is tight and you will not be able to get your fingers underneath it. Put the face palte back in place and reattach the screws. Put the soap dispenser assembly back in place and hinge the lip back into place. Reattach the screws for the soap dispenser and lid. Reattach the door and test everything for any leaks. It was not very diificult at all and it took roughly 30-45 minutes. Read all of the other stories as well to help get an overal flavor for the job beforehand.

Water would continue to flow into Washer even after washing machine was off

  • Customer: Brian from Mount Airy MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The best way to access the water value was through the rear of the stackable washer/dryer by removing the back access panel (3 screws with nut driver). It was also necessary to remove the large back panel where you access the drive belt to get you hands up to the valve. It was a little tight accessing the valve unit from the back but definitely better then removing alot more to access through the front.

Once the back access panels are off you will see the blue water valve. it has (3) water hose connections and (5) electrical connections. Make sure to label each of the water hoses and electrical connections before removing them. The hoses simply are held on by hose clamps (use a screw driver) and the electrical connections just slide off the contact conductors. Real simple but again it is a bit tight working from the small access panel.

I marked all of the hose and electrical connections prior to removing anything. The removed all connections and slipped out the water valve. Simple reconnected water hoses and electrical connections replaced both access panels and all systems were a go.

Definitely a relatively easy fix for a do it yourself project. Part was only $70 (included shipping). Repair cost for the Maytag man was quoted at $450 for visit labor and parts.

2 baffles fell off . the screws stipped out and drier only had one baffle left inside

  • Customer: randall from austintown OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
take 2 phillips screws out where door meets drier. remove door, set aside. take 2 phillips screws out on other side, set screws aside. remove front of drier by pulling on top left and right sides, front of drier will fall twards front of drier. when it touches the floor lift up on bottom. set aside for later. put new baffels in (you can see where the old ones went) put screws in from bottom 5/16nutdriver. tighten. put drier front back on . start at bottom , snap top back in on both sides. put two screws back on left side, put door back on and replace 2 screws ( door will not go on wrong) test and your done...

Cold Water Valve bad

  • Customer: David L from Cleveland, OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
This is a stack unit. The service manual describes the repair by going in from the front of the washer. I found it much quicker by the back. Take the large panel off the rear of washer. Take 2 screws out of the H/C connection panel and work it to the inside of the washer. Next you will be able to turn it enough to get to a single screw on the right side that holds the valve assembly to the support panel. Take it out and now you can slide the valve assembly to the right and release it from the support panel. Drop the panel down and out of the washer. Next mark electrical connections and unplug all. Start on the left and take off all 3 hoses careful not to mix them up and re-attach to new valve assembly. Hook up electrical plugs, re-attach to support panel and work the panel through the opening and re-attach to the outside of washer. It is a little tight working in close quarters, but will save lots of time. This was much less involved that trying to get to the valve assembly from the front!

Bad bearings and support arm

  • Customer: Susan from Whiteford MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
We took off the fornt and back of the machine and pulled out the outer tub...then pulled the rear and the front bearings...and the sleeve between...and the support arm...We had only thought we would replace the bearings, but there is a seal in the hub of the support arm that often goes wrong and causes the bearing problem...That appeared to be the case in this we are glad we chose to replace the arm too. Then we reassembled in reverse order and voila! The machine is as quiet as can be!

Rattling sound.

  • Customer: Laurence from Leesburg VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off circuit breaker. Removed two screws at base of front panel with stubby Phillips-head screwdriver. Swung panel up about 30-degrees, and removed panel, disconnecting red and yellow wire to door switch. Removed four sheet metal screws and took off large drum support bracket. Checked drum support rollers and shafts. They were fine. Reset circuit breaker and turned on dryer. Rattling noise still present.
Removed six small screws holding blower fan assembly. Shaft receiver on squirrel cage fan was worn completely round (it should fit onto a half-round shaft). Ordered new blower fan from Replaced tonight, and it works beautifully. This dryer is 29-years old. All it's ever needed in the 10-years I've owned it is a belt replacement and this repair. Long live the 1970s Maytags, and good parts suppliers like this one.

the problem is the motor

  • Customer: Bick from Alameda CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
first i follow the instruction come with parts in box...and replace easy this the best place to buy parts for all home appliance...thanks

Dryer made very loud squealing, screeching noise. (Sometimes Intermittent, sometimes constant)

  • Customer: Lisa from Trenton NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Note: You may want to consider replacing the 2 Drum Support rollers at this time (while your in there)


2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached as straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.

3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.

4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top
of the dryer closed.

5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).

*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.

6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.

7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.

8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.

9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.

10. Reassemble

(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)

Rear Felt seal came out, squealing sound when drying

  • Customer: Matthew from Lombard IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off gas and unplugged dryer
1) Removed bottom front panel
2) lifted top panel up like a car hood
3) Removed door springs
4) disconnected electrial connections to door unit, removed door unit
5) removed drum, scraped old felt from drum
6) glued new felt with a very strong glue (nanoglue or gorilla glue, same thing), let it dry overnight
7) secured back inside panel, replaced drum and put dryer back together.

bearings on tub bad

  • Customer: Richard from Swanton OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I removed everything to get to the inner tub then removed the belt pulley and pushed inner tub and shaft out of the outer tub. Then I used a die grinder and cut bearings out. I am a Machine Repairman by trade. I have cut out a lot of bearings before but nothing this small. It took 2hrs. I fit new bearings to the outer tub and shaft. Then put on the new seal and reassembled The bearings I got the at Granger approximately $45., and new seal approximately $40.. All I read on this washer is the bearings could not be replaced. The new outer tub with bearings is well over $400. At that price plus labor nobody repairs these washers. I have seen some on Craig list not in working order These washers are not that old.
I ended up buying the same thing for my daughter in law. Same bearings and seal. For the short service life I have received from the Maytag Neptune, I don’t think I would buy or recommend Maytag products.

I like to do this kind of work. Rich

Broken Pump

  • Customer: Drake from Crofton MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Roll washer out of drain pan on section of 3" PVC pipe. Unplug washer & disconnect hoses. Remove rear access panel with nutdriver. Disconnect wiring harness from pump. Disconnect hoses from pump using screwdriver and pliers. Twist pump counter-clockwise to separate from bottom of washer housing. Transfer electronic component from old to new pump. Install new pump in reverse order as above.

Dryer stopped working

  • Customer: Mary Ann from East China Township MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
From previous experience I suspected the thermal fuse. Turned off the power and removed the front of the dryer by removing the two philips head screws in the door hinge and the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. The front came off easily since all that holds it in place besides the 4 screws are two spring clips. The thermal fuse is located on the side of the chamber enclosing the heating element. I removed the wires connected to the thermal fuse and temporarily joined them together with a spade type connector in order to determine if the thermal fuse was the problem. Turned the power back on and tried the ran normally. Turned the power back off and removed the thermal fuse by taking out th two screws with a 1/4" nutdriver.
Ordered a replacement thermal fuse, installed it (with power turned off) and put everything back together. Dryer functioned normally after the thermal fuse had been replaced.
The thermal fuse can be removed and reinstalled using a 1/4" nutdriver. The wires are connected with push on spade type terminals.
Note: The swing damper on the dryer vent (the hooded cover where it exhausts to the outdoors) was jammed in the closed position with an accumulation of lint, which caused the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse. If you experience a blown thermal fuse, always look for the cause or you'll blow the replacement within minutes of running the fryer again.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
31-45 of 652