Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
76-90 of 652
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Dryer shut off before clothes were dry

  • Customer: Paul from Tamaqua PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta. NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.

Motor had an open in winding

  • Customer: Robert A. from Warwick NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

no heat, coil wasnt getting hot

  • Customer: matthew from Central Islip NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

Failed bearings cause by a failed lip seal

  • Customer: Thomas from Olathe KS
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, let me say that the Lip Seal Kit was delivered the next day after my order and that I was encourged to attempt the repair by the owners repair procedure response. The lip seal in my machine must have failed along time ago as I have been living with noisy bearings for at least the last twelve months. Disassembly of the machine was straight forward following the Part Select instructions. The lip seal was so disintegrated it hard to tell what originally looked like. Lots of rust and gunk in lip seal area. After removing the snap ring behind the rear bearing I was able to drive out the rear bearing using a brass 3/4" drift pin and a two# hammer. I than attemped to remove the front bearing using a 1 1/2" steel pipe that matched up to the inner race of the front bearing and my trusty hammer. Nothing I did could budge that bearing. Since the outer tube is suspended by springs and struts I decided that lot of hammer energy is absored by springs and my best solution was to remove the outer tub. I then used a couple pieces of U channel steel(this could be steel pipe or some 2X4's) that were longer than the depth of the tub and positioned them to contact metal bearing tub insert. These supports were mounted in small Workmate vise setting on the garage floor and using the 1 1/2" steel pipe I drove the inside bearing out. After some general clean up I picked up some bearings at the local distributor for $42.00. Re-assembly takes a little planning as you need to hold the steel insert betwwen the bearings and keep it lined up in the bore. I think the best way is to install the rear bearing first and install the snap ring. I then put the steel ring in place and held it with cardboard insert from a paper towel roll. The cardboard roll was cut about 2 1/2" long and cut lenght wise to insert though the rear bearing and held in place with tape. The front bearing was then tapped into place followed by the lip seal. Note that if you install the front bearing first and seat it all the way in, the rear bearing will contact the steel insert and not allow enough room to get the snap ring in place. When I was done I didn't have any parts leftover and thru six washing machine loads peace and quiet has returned to my house. Hope it last. Note: If you elect to remove the outer tub you might want to take some pictures so you can see how it all is supposed to look before you close the hood.

Short Baffle in dryer drum was broke off

  • Customer: Wade from Lovell WY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.

Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"

  • Customer: keith from saluda VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place

Broken knob

  • Customer: Debi from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Pull off the original knob, pop off the insert part to install into the new outer knob part, replace knob onto metal seating.

What is remarkable is that just after the original warranty expired on this machine I had called out Maytag repair...because the dryer had stopped, and I couldn't figure out why...the knob had broken and I had not realized it, so it turned out it was misaligned. The repairman did not charge for the knob, even though he had to order the part for us. He just sent it to us in the mail. The service call had been $56....now, about two years later, the knob broke again...this time I knew the problem, and saved money! Yay!

Broken door strike

  • Customer: Carl from Livermore CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed one screw and took out old broken door strike, replaced with new door strke and put screw back in. Only took two three days to get the part. The dryer is as good as new!

Metal burr ate away felt and tumbler edge

  • Customer: Jill from Cape Corral FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
My boyfriend took the dryer apart but was not available for the reassembly. I simply pulled up the detailed diagram that Part Select had in their database and was able to put it back together, although a little slower than anticipated.

Thank you for everything.

Water Leak on front of (Front Loading) Washer

  • Customer: Harry from Otsego MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I researched the internet and found my answer on this site. There were others who shared their experiences which made the repair easy. There was a leak in the front gasket between the drum and outer frame. I printed out several answers that customers had posted. I opened the front door on the washer and found a tear in the bottom of the gasket near the drain hole.
To use the washer until the parts arrived (which only took 2 days), I used a bike repair patch to seal the hole in the gasket. NOTE: Don't use the glue type as it may get on the clothing. I used a patch that you pull off the backing and apply. It worked great until I got the parts.
Another party had posted how he got the cable and spring attached on the gasket. He used fishing line. I used masonary string I got from Home Depot. I made a loop on one end and attached it with the spring and pulled both around the gasket after I had positioned it on the back drum. I looped the string over the other end of the spring and pulled. As the spring stretched, I hooked the other end of the cable on the spring. It worked perfectly. Note: Don't worry about the string being underneath the cable, you merely pull it out slowly and the hard part is done. I then hooked the front of the gasket into the slots and finished the job. It took about 40 minutes alone.
P.S. Parts select got my ordered filled and sent to my residence within two days. Great experience and I would not hesitate to order from them again.

Squeaking sound then Barrel stoped turning

  • Customer: John from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

Heating Element was starting to fail

  • Customer: Timothy from Loganton PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

leaking water

  • Customer: JOSE from HACIENDA HEIGHTS CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Opened a small door in the rear of the washer and loosen the two braces with a screw driver and pulled the old hose and replaced with the new hose replace the door and that was all.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
76-90 of 652