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Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
76-90 of 657
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Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.

  • Customer: Richard from Loretto, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Noisy and thumping drum

  • Customer: Barry from League City, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.

Switch did not turn off dryer when door opened

  • Customer: paul from madison, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

Motor/board , ran erraticly-stopped midstream

  • Customer: Roy from Painesville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

Dryer shut off before clothes were dry

  • Customer: Paul from Tamaqua, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.

change stuck in drain pump, damaged the motor

  • Customer: gordon from indianapolis, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
just replaces the pump , the replacement pump was a little different than OE , mounting bracket different but was able to remove housing and bracket from broke pump and put on new pump , all works fine

Squeaking sound then Barrel stoped turning

  • Customer: John from Palmdale, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Dryer would not turn start

  • Customer: John from Midway, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

Broken knob

  • Customer: Debi from Jacksonville, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Pull off the original knob, pop off the insert part to install into the new outer knob part, replace knob onto metal seating.

What is remarkable is that just after the original warranty expired on this machine I had called out Maytag repair...because the dryer had stopped, and I couldn't figure out why...the knob had broken and I had not realized it, so it turned out it was misaligned. The repairman did not charge for the knob, even though he had to order the part for us. He just sent it to us in the mail. The service call had been $56....now, about two years later, the knob broke again...this time I knew the problem, and saved money! Yay!
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
76-90 of 657