Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
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The Lint Filter was ripped.

  • Customer: Sandy from Ankeny IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 66 of 128 people found this instruction helpful
I put the new one in . Nothing to it.

Motor would not spin or cycle

  • Customer: Allan from Beavercreek OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench set
  • 42 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the inclose instructions that came with the Motor and Control Board Conversion Kit very easy.

Washer not draining

  • Customer: Timothy from Bremerton WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 32 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug washer, turn off water, disconnect supply hoses.
Drain washer by removing the one screw holding the hose on the bottom rear of the washer, drop the hose to the floor and let it drain (you may want to take washer outside)
Remove four screws holding rear panel
Locate the pump and disconnect the two wires. Wires can be attached to either terminal when reinstalling, orientation is not important.
Using 5/16 driver, loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet pump hoses then remove hoses from pump.
Twist the pump counter clockwise then pull straight up to remove.

Squeeling on startup and intermittently during use

  • Customer: Larry from Panama City Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
First, I read reviews on this forum. Great help! I was betting, from previous reviews, that it was a drum roller. I took everything apart prior to ordering any parts. Sure enough, one drum roller was seized on the roller shaft. Decided to replace all rotating parts (rollers,shafts, belt, idler pulley) while everything was apart. I also took the opportunity to clean out all of the lint (there was a lot) from the motor and intake.
Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.

Loud Knocking during the Spin Cycle

  • Customer: Bradley from Round Rock TX
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 34 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the Rear and Front Skins of the Washer. Removed the Belt and Tub Drive Wheel from the rear of the Tub. Removed the Front Rubber Gasket and Bracket Assy. Removed the Tub Cover w/Seal, Spinner Balance Ring (both were damaged.) Knocked the Spin Tub forward with a sharp hammer-rap on the Axle (the Axle is pressed into a Bearing that remains in the Stationery Tub.) Removed the Spinner Assy--found one of the securing bolts on the tri-Arm Support sheared off causing an imbalance. Also, the tri-Arm Support was cracked in various places. Replaced all bad parts using the Spinner Support Assy Kit and new Plastic Washers. Replaced everything else in reverse order then tested. Finally, reinstalled all Machine Skins. Very successful, about 3 hours.

element was burn out

  • Customer: carl from moultire GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
took the front off by removing two screws took two screws out of element housing undon the wire and romeve element housing then romove the remaing parts that was needed on the new element then reinstall the element housing whith the new element in ti reinstall front of dryer and starting drying clothes project was complete

mold on door gasket

  • Customer: Roberta from Ocean Isle Beach NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Apparently the only way to solve the notorious mold problem on the rubber gasket of the Maytag Neptune front-loading washer is by replacing the door gasket. I ordered the boot kit from you and my husband attempted to do the job without the benefit of an instruction sheet, but I was finally forced to download the repair manual from the Maytag website. Using a screwdriver to remove the the front door, the detergent dispenser, and the shroud, he was able to remove the old gasket, though stretching the spring that held the gasket in place required some strength. The only tricky part was stretching the spring again that holds the replacement gasket in place. With a little ingenuity, a screwdriver (and some dishwashing liquid to make the task a little easier) he finally accomplished it. It took him over 3 hours, but the job is done and the washer seems to be working fine. Your service was fast and efficient and I wouldn't hesitate using your service again, but enclosing a detailed instruction sheet would have been helpful. Now that he knows how to do the job he acknowledges that the it shouldn't take him more than an hour the next time, should the gasket need replacement again. Meanwhile I am going to try tackling the mold problem by leaving the front door open after wiping out the water that remains on the door gasket after each wash.

Dryer would not start.

  • Customer: FRANK from BROOKLYN NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 27 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
After checking power to the outlet, I removed the back panel to remove the Control Panel. Testing the timer shoed I had nothing leaving the timer (Door was closed and I held the Push/Start button at the same time. Ordered and replace new timer - still didn't work. Teseted the door button and found it corroded. Tried cleaning contacts and got it to work for a split second. Ordered Door Switch and Push/Start Button -just in case. Replaced door switch - dryer works fine!

Squeaking noise when dryer was on! Very annoying!

  • Customer: Scott from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.

no heat in dryer

  • Customer: Eugene from McAdoo PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I removed front cover of dryer and found heating unit. I needed the detailed drawings from the PartSelect web site to help me find how to get the front cover off. It was easy after that changing out the sensors and reinstalling the heating unit.

Metal on Metal Squealing Noise

  • Customer: John from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
After taking the dryer apart, I found that one of the drum support rollers was barely hanging on the pin and was the main cause of the metal on metal squealing noise that became increasingly worse over a month's time.

I replaced both rollers, the idler pulley, and put on a new belt after giving the dryer a thorough cleaning.

It was a 100% success and fixed the problem making the dryer work and sound like brand new again.

very loud noise when washing and especially spinning

  • Customer: Fritz from Wasilla AK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Pre-ordered the spinner support & seal kit, searched online and found a repair manual, disassembled machine according to the manual, removed snap ring outside of rear bearing, used hammer and drift punch to remove bearings, went to local bearing supply store and purchased 1-6206 2RSJEM and 1-6207 2RSJEM for a total of $43. Used needle scaler to remove the ~1/8th inch of scale from inside of the outer drum and outside of the inner drum and other parts encrusted with scale. Installed new bearings and the seals and new spinner and reassembled the rest of the washer. Now we can't hear it when it spins!

Broken contact on high limit thermostat - dryer no start

  • Customer: Nova from Hudson OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer! Then unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the front door. To remove the front door, swing the bottom up about 30 degrees until the two triangular hooks at the top of the door release. Then release the two wires going to the door switch from their harness so as to gain more slack to move the door out of the way. The switch was secured by 2 hex head sheet metal screws1/4inch in diameter. I used a small right angle socket wrench to get these loose. I only had to remove the front screw completely to be able to take the switch out for exchange purposes. Once this was done, reverse the process and plug it in! (BTW, the electrical schematic for this dryer is up under the top console)

Belt wore off and broke

  • Customer: DANIEL from WEST CHESTER PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the back panel of the washing machine. Removed the old belt and wrote down the part number. Shopped online for a suitable replacement and found a perfect match at part select.com. I put in an order and it was delivered in a couple of days! I opened the back panel of the washing machinie again. This time I decided to also replace the isolators that came with the kit. For this, I had to unscrew the motor and gently tug it free. I placed it on the floor of the washing machine. I then replaced the 2 isolators as described in the kit, reinstalled the motor and put the screw back on. I then proceeded to place the belt on the motor and on to the wheel. This took couple of tries to get the grooves right. I then tested the washing machine on a rinse cycle and things looked good. Its been working fine so far.

Door problem on Maytag stacked washer/dryer

  • Customer: William from Jennings FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
This is a Washer/Dryer stack unit. Had trouble with the power light not going off automatically. Had to press the power on/off switch to get it to turn off and allow the door to open. While this was going on, the washer would rotate every few seconds and would continue this until the off switch was pressed. Tried replacing the door lock enabler switches and the timer. This did not help. Finally smelled an electrical odor and found that the mother board (located in the upper right front part of the dryer) had a burned resistor (R-11) When this happens, it requires replacing the wax motor and the mother board. This corrected the problem. If you do have problems with the door lock, I would suggest replacing the wax motor as soon as possible. If the wax motor isn't replaced it may burn the new mother board. If I had replaced the wax motor initially, I doubt if the mother board resistor would have burned. Works fine now.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
16-30 of 652