Models > MLE2000AYW > Instructions

MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for MLE2000AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
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Switch sticking in on position

  • Customer: Don from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 39 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

dried too many shoes and broke the baffles

  • Customer: Teresa from Pace FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
removed door, removed screws to lift top panel, removed screws that held old baffles, replaced with new baffles, took off front panel and cleaned out excess lint while I was in there.

Loud Knocking during the Spin Cycle

  • Customer: Bradley from Round Rock TX
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 33 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the Rear and Front Skins of the Washer. Removed the Belt and Tub Drive Wheel from the rear of the Tub. Removed the Front Rubber Gasket and Bracket Assy. Removed the Tub Cover w/Seal, Spinner Balance Ring (both were damaged.) Knocked the Spin Tub forward with a sharp hammer-rap on the Axle (the Axle is pressed into a Bearing that remains in the Stationery Tub.) Removed the Spinner Assy--found one of the securing bolts on the tri-Arm Support sheared off causing an imbalance. Also, the tri-Arm Support was cracked in various places. Replaced all bad parts using the Spinner Support Assy Kit and new Plastic Washers. Replaced everything else in reverse order then tested. Finally, reinstalled all Machine Skins. Very successful, about 3 hours.

Washer not draining

  • Customer: Timothy from Bremerton WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 28 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug washer, turn off water, disconnect supply hoses.
Drain washer by removing the one screw holding the hose on the bottom rear of the washer, drop the hose to the floor and let it drain (you may want to take washer outside)
Remove four screws holding rear panel
Locate the pump and disconnect the two wires. Wires can be attached to either terminal when reinstalling, orientation is not important.
Using 5/16 driver, loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet pump hoses then remove hoses from pump.
Twist the pump counter clockwise then pull straight up to remove.

Squeeling on startup and intermittently during use

  • Customer: Larry from Panama City Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
First, I read reviews on this forum. Great help! I was betting, from previous reviews, that it was a drum roller. I took everything apart prior to ordering any parts. Sure enough, one drum roller was seized on the roller shaft. Decided to replace all rotating parts (rollers,shafts, belt, idler pulley) while everything was apart. I also took the opportunity to clean out all of the lint (there was a lot) from the motor and intake.
Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.

mold on door gasket

  • Customer: Roberta from Ocean Isle Beach NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Apparently the only way to solve the notorious mold problem on the rubber gasket of the Maytag Neptune front-loading washer is by replacing the door gasket. I ordered the boot kit from you and my husband attempted to do the job without the benefit of an instruction sheet, but I was finally forced to download the repair manual from the Maytag website. Using a screwdriver to remove the the front door, the detergent dispenser, and the shroud, he was able to remove the old gasket, though stretching the spring that held the gasket in place required some strength. The only tricky part was stretching the spring again that holds the replacement gasket in place. With a little ingenuity, a screwdriver (and some dishwashing liquid to make the task a little easier) he finally accomplished it. It took him over 3 hours, but the job is done and the washer seems to be working fine. Your service was fast and efficient and I wouldn't hesitate using your service again, but enclosing a detailed instruction sheet would have been helpful. Now that he knows how to do the job he acknowledges that the it shouldn't take him more than an hour the next time, should the gasket need replacement again. Meanwhile I am going to try tackling the mold problem by leaving the front door open after wiping out the water that remains on the door gasket after each wash.

no heat in dryer

  • Customer: Eugene from McAdoo PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I removed front cover of dryer and found heating unit. I needed the detailed drawings from the PartSelect web site to help me find how to get the front cover off. It was easy after that changing out the sensors and reinstalling the heating unit.

Dryer would not start.

  • Customer: FRANK from BROOKLYN NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 24 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
After checking power to the outlet, I removed the back panel to remove the Control Panel. Testing the timer shoed I had nothing leaving the timer (Door was closed and I held the Push/Start button at the same time. Ordered and replace new timer - still didn't work. Teseted the door button and found it corroded. Tried cleaning contacts and got it to work for a split second. Ordered Door Switch and Push/Start Button -just in case. Replaced door switch - dryer works fine!

Squeaking noise when dryer was on! Very annoying!

  • Customer: Scott from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.

element was burn out

  • Customer: carl from moultire GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
took the front off by removing two screws took two screws out of element housing undon the wire and romeve element housing then romove the remaing parts that was needed on the new element then reinstall the element housing whith the new element in ti reinstall front of dryer and starting drying clothes project was complete

Broken contact on high limit thermostat - dryer no start

  • Customer: Nova from Hudson OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer! Then unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the front door. To remove the front door, swing the bottom up about 30 degrees until the two triangular hooks at the top of the door release. Then release the two wires going to the door switch from their harness so as to gain more slack to move the door out of the way. The switch was secured by 2 hex head sheet metal screws1/4inch in diameter. I used a small right angle socket wrench to get these loose. I only had to remove the front screw completely to be able to take the switch out for exchange purposes. Once this was done, reverse the process and plug it in! (BTW, the electrical schematic for this dryer is up under the top console)

The dryer was making a terrible noise that sounded like bearings squealing.

  • Customer: Edward from Pike Road AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I've never even opened this dryer before so I looked at one of the installation videos PartSelect has. I found one using my model, which made it really easy. I removed the front panel and door, then lifted the top of the dryer up on it's hinges: that's a great feature because you need the top out of the way to remove the drum. I took the belt off the drum, lifted it up and pulled it straight out. I did buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring off the drum support shaft. I think you really must have those to remove and replace the rings. Be careful when removing the snap rings. I shot the first one across the room like it was a rubber band. We had a good laugh. I used a wrench to hold the nut on the backside of the roller shaft and unscrewed it. I screwed the new roller shafts on, slipped the drum rollers on them, then carefully used the snap ring pliers to place the rings on the front of the shaft to hold the rollers on. While I had the unit opened up, I figured I should go ahead and replace the multi rib belt. I put the ribbed side on the drum and sat the drum on the rollers . The tricky part is now getting down on the ground, reaching under the drum for the belt. Make sure the belt isn't twisted anywhere on the drum or in your hands while you pull the belt under the idler pulley. Hold the belt ribbed sides together while feeding the belt under the pulley. It takes a good deal of strength to move the pulley over so you can hook the end of the belt on the shaft. Once you've gotten that attached, put your hand inside the drum and rotate it a few times to make sure you connected it properly and that you placed the belt in the right spot on the drum. It was easy to see the black stripe around the drum where I'd taken off the old one.

Metal on Metal Squealing Noise

  • Customer: John from Bethlehem PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
After taking the dryer apart, I found that one of the drum support rollers was barely hanging on the pin and was the main cause of the metal on metal squealing noise that became increasingly worse over a month's time.

I replaced both rollers, the idler pulley, and put on a new belt after giving the dryer a thorough cleaning.

It was a 100% success and fixed the problem making the dryer work and sound like brand new again.

Door boot needed to be replaced after it was damaged when my wife tried to wash a stiff rubber rug

  • Customer: David from Parker CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the other instructions provided by your toher users. Basically I reomved the 4 face screws secruing the front pannel assembley and the door hinges as described with a philips head screw driver. Removal of the door was easily accomplished once you played witht he hinges to slide them upward slightly to clear the lips. The soap dispenser was then loosened by removing the 4 corner screws. Take care not to completely remove the soap dish. It simply needs to be moved aside with the flexible hoses still attached. This is accomplished once the top lid is hinged upward out of the way. The face panel can then be removed and set asside ater removing the screws holding it in place. Remove the damaged boot with the anterior face (door side)first. It simply gets pulled away from the sealing flanges. With the top lid removed you should have direct visualization and access to the retaining cable and the spring tensioner. I found that neither of the previously described methods of taking the tension with pliers or having an assistant were particularly helpful. Under the soap dispenser you will notice a hole in the top lip of the side frame. I attached a piece of rope to this hole using a small snap link. The other end of the rope had an "s" link set into the middle of the rope and the other end hooked over the spring hook. Now puliing back on the loose end of the rope back towards the attachment point creates a mechanical advantage easing the spring open and then using pliers you can easily remove the retaining cable. Ease off the spring and then set aside. The posterior portion of the door boot can now be removed and the old piece discarded. Take care to disconnect the drain plug at the bottom first. Replacing the boot was fairly straighforward. I attached the posterio portion first taking care to align the indentions were appropriate. Once is was attached and aligned, use the rope assembly once again to draw tension on the spring in a controlled fashion. Hold the other end of the cable with some needle nose pliers and slip over the spring hook once enough tension is applied. This method only took me one try and the mechanical advantage created was very effective. I then turned my attention to the anterior portion of the boot and pushed it into the flanges. I also found the the required pressure was a bit stiff and your fingers will get tired quickly. Use a smooth stick or a spatula particularly underneath the door latch assembly since space is tight and you will not be able to get your fingers underneath it. Put the face palte back in place and reattach the screws. Put the soap dispenser assembly back in place and hinge the lip back into place. Reattach the screws for the soap dispenser and lid. Reattach the door and test everything for any leaks. It was not very diificult at all and it took roughly 30-45 minutes. Read all of the other stories as well to help get an overal flavor for the job beforehand.

Belt wore off and broke

  • Customer: DANIEL from WEST CHESTER PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the back panel of the washing machine. Removed the old belt and wrote down the part number. Shopped online for a suitable replacement and found a perfect match at part select.com. I put in an order and it was delivered in a couple of days! I opened the back panel of the washing machinie again. This time I decided to also replace the isolators that came with the kit. For this, I had to unscrew the motor and gently tug it free. I placed it on the floor of the washing machine. I then replaced the 2 isolators as described in the kit, reinstalled the motor and put the screw back on. I then proceeded to place the belt on the motor and on to the wheel. This took couple of tries to get the grooves right. I then tested the washing machine on a rinse cycle and things looked good. Its been working fine so far.
All Instructions for the MLE2000AYW
16-30 of 635