Models > MDE9206AYW > Instructions

MDE9206AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDE9206AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDE9206AYW
31-45 of 624
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The short baffle came loose and was rattling around in the dryer.

  • Customer: Melissa from Cedar Rapids IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy, based on the comments from this website. I used a 6-in-1 screwdriver, and that was the only tool. I removed the two screws holding the hinges, removed the door, then the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. This allowed the front panel to come off. I spun the dryer tumbler until the baffle that was loose was at approximately 5 o'clock. I unscrewed the remaining screw and found the missing screw in the bottom of the dryer. I put those two screws into the new baffle, and popped the front back in place. I reinstalled the four screws (two opposite the hinge, then the two that hold the hinges)...all done in about 20 minutes (including vacuuming the lint out from that lower area).

no heat from the dryer

  • Customer: James from blanchester OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I had to find out just how the dryer came apart. Most of the time, the back comes off but with this particular Maytag, it is the front that has to be removed. Once the four screws from either side are removed, the front pops off and the canister that holds the heating element is right there on the bottom. Cleaning away years of lint was fun but the heating canister was removed quickly using two screws and removing four wires that attached to the unit. Once the screws were removed (top back and bottom front) and the wires removed, the replacement unit slid right in without any problems. The regulator on the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit before installation. I closed up the front, put the four screws back in and snapped the front closed and the dryer worked perfectly.

dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Gilbert from Hollister CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws from the dryer front cover (located just under door)I Then swung font cover up and off it's latches. Exposing drum asy and heating element. Using a nut driver to remove two hold down screws and disconnect electrical wires from heating element. Really simple! took me approxmatly 20 minutes and this included vacuuming inside motor area with a shop vac.

My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.

  • Customer: Richard from Loretto MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Dryer wouldn't start

  • Customer: SALLY from ANAHEIM CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.

Door Catch was broken

  • Customer: Inocencio from Edinburg TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

Dryer would not require start button to start, and buzzer would only stop after dryer door opened.

  • Customer: Richard from McKinney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect dryer power supply, remove back cover from console, by removing 5screws. Pull out start switch using screwdriver to release plastic locking clips, disconnect wiring harness, reconnect wiring harness to new switch, and slide new switch into the mounting location, allowing the locking clips to engage. Reinstall back console cover, reconnect power supply, and test.

Timer knob broke from the middle.

  • Customer: Jorge from Longwood FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Researched for the part numbers and found the parts needed. In this case the timer knob is made up of 3 separate pieces that easily snap together.

loud noise inside dryer

  • Customer: Terry from Caruthersville MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.

Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running

  • Customer: John from Warsaw IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Squeaking sound then Barrel stoped turning

  • Customer: John from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

Heating Element was starting to fail

  • Customer: Timothy from Loganton PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

Buzzer did not work.

  • Customer: Thomas from Inverness FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the four screws that hold the back cover of the control panel. I then disconnected the two wires from the buzzer and removed two screws holding the buzzer. Install the new buzzer.

Short Baffle in dryer drum was broke off

  • Customer: Wade from Lovell WY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.

Dryer over heating...not shutting off or going thru cycles properly.

  • Customer: Charles from Navarre FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Opened front of dryer & watched the heating unit not shutting off. Purchased the proper high limit thermostat. Replaced it and the multi-temp cycling thermostat for good measure. My dryer runs like new with no additional problems. Thanks for making parts so readily available. Thought I was going to have to replace my dryer, but now it's fixed.....Thanks,again.
All Instructions for the MDE9206AYW
31-45 of 624